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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hi David. Thanks for your input. I have a couple questions
about hammer mass with Del-designed bellies. I did some experimenting with note
#40. The picture you are referring to was actually note #16, not #20 - but
that doesn't really matter. You are suggesting a SW for note 20 of 9g or maybe
even a little less. That's a light hammer! But then, your reasoning may be right
on, considering the new efficient Del-designed belly in this piano.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Do you set your hammer weights using Stanwood's Smart
Chart SW curves? A 9g SW for note #20 falls about 2/3 of the way up from the
extreme light curve to the light-medium curve. Staying on the same curve, note
#40 should have a SW of about 8.0g or 8.1g, according to the Stanwood curves.
That curve would have and A0 SW of about 9.5g and a C88 SW of about 4.2g. Is
that what you are thinking? I realize, of course, these Stanwood curves are
nothing set in stone - a particular piano may do better with a curve that
crosses into other zones on Stanwood's Smart Chart. What SW curves
do you find working best with Del's designs? What kind of hammers are you
favoring? Probably a Ronson. With what kind of felt?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Note #40 originally had four 12g leads in it. I put a 17mm
knuckle and an 8g SW hammer on - popped out the two leads closest to the key
front and measured DW - it is now less than 50g. If a light SW range works well
for this piano belly, it would seem my problems are pretty close to over.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Part of my initial confusion may also be related to info
on the Abel shank/knuckle data. They offer two shank/knuckle/flange assemblies
for old Knabes - their data indicates that one has an 18mm core-to-center
distance, and the other is 17mm. The shank assemblies I received from Brooks
have a 16mm distance. I'm not sure why. I'll give Wally a jingle on
Friday.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Personally, I don’t
like going to 18 mm for the knuckle. If you do, consider repinning the
balancier flange so you can put more tension on the rep spring.
Otherwise, you will have to regulate it too close to the edge and the jack
return can suffer. If the picture below indicates the strike weight of
note 20 at 11.9 grams, I’d use a lighter hammer. I don’t see why you
need a 10 gram hammer at note 20. Nine grams should be plenty for your
6’4” Knabe with new and sensitive soundboard and you could probably go even
lighter. Moving the knuckle (better to have bought the shank with the
correct knuckle to begin with) to 17 mm and taking 1 gram off the hammer you
will achieve approximately the same goal as moving the knuckle to 18 mm (maybe
a little better in fact). You won’t have to compromise jack angle
either. To figure out how much lead you can remove it is 1:1 inverse
ratio FW: BW. So if you want to add 6 grams of balance weight you
subtract 6 grams of FW. (Makes sense, right? You take lead out of
the key and the touchweight gets heavier.) That’s a 12 gram lead located
in the middle of the keystick (between front and balance rail). Don’t
get too hung up on 3-2-1-0 configuration. You’re slightly better off
with a 4-3-2-1 set up with the leads moved closer to the balance
rail. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">SNIP</SPAN></FONT><FONT
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<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy">David
Love</SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>