<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Action Ratio and Dip and Blow and Etc.</TITLE> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <STYLE type=text/css>BLOCKQUOTE { PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } DL { PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } UL { PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } OL { PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } LI { PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } </STYLE> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3132" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV>><FONT face=Arial color=#000000>I started with both "Parts Kits":</FONT>...<FONT face=Arial color=#000000> both the Renner kit and the Abel kit</FONT> ...</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Ah grasshoppah, you're one kit short. Tokiwa Parts Kit (P-tech, Brooks).</DIV> <DIV>(Don't feel bad, I have yet to get the Abel Kit).</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I will have to get one. I didn't know there was such a beast. Thanks. I have heard good things about Tokiwa parts.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Looking at the configuration of the whippen, I would have included the</DIV> <DIV>Tokiwa M&H w/ adj. spring assist for consideration.  If these are used,</DIV> <DIV>you could remove one of the leads near the outer end because the spring</DIV> <DIV>will support the weight of the whippen effecting at least a -10 g on FW.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I'll have to keep that in mind. I've never used wippen springs. Is it the case that they are usually only used on the lower portion of the keyboard? How far up can they sucessfully be used? I'll try more moving things around and see how things shake out. If I am still with lots of lead in the bass, then maybe that would be a good route to tame that area down.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>Either the Abel or Tokiwa kit has a M&H shank with the knuckle at 18 mm,</DIV> <DIV>17 mm might be all you can squeeze out of it though, try many configurations</DIV> <DIV>to ascertain which provides the best regulation and lowest friction.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Will do.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>If you find a shank to regulate well but the flange doesn't fit the rail,</DIV> <DIV>alter the rail by removing or adding material on the indexing edge.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:003a01c7be57$3a9f0240$0302a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>You mean like in the picture above? I already did that once to the hammer rail on this action to mate with the Abel flanges. You mean modify this #$&% rail again?!?!?!  What was it a famous philosopher once said....... "measure once, cut twice"..... yeah, that must be it.  ;-)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><BR></DIV> <DIV>Measure twice. cut once. Don't let this happen to you,</DIV> <DIV>"Hey Moe, I cut it twice and it's still too short."</DIV> <DIV>"Ya moron, it's only short on one end."</DIV><X-SIGSEP><PRE>-- </PRE></X-SIGSEP> <DIV><BR>Regards,<BR><BR>Jon Page</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>