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<DIV><STRONG><EM> David</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> I'll get to the bench reg part but first
This thread brings up the question where & one measures dip & with
what does one use to do this. A dip block, a ruler? As long as I've done this
work I've used a simple distance gauge that fits under the key. It's .375 in
diameter. It's a small piece of steel with a thin handle brazed to it.
PIcs below . The cut out in the face of it fits right up into & against the
pin.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> <IMG SRC="cid:X.MA1.1184249266@aol.com" style="WIDTH: 480px; HEIGHT: 360px" height=360 width=480 vspace=5 comp_state="speed" DATASIZE="44060" ID="MA1.1184249266" ><IMG SRC="cid:X.MA2.1184249266@aol.com" style="WIDTH: 480px; HEIGHT: 360px" height=360 width=480 vspace=5 comp_state="speed" DATASIZE="40909" ID="MA2.1184249266" ></EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> My Dad made it 40 years ago.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> It's easy to use,visual & quick. Just Insert the jig
& if the dip is shallow, the key rises, indicating the need to remove
punchings....again visual...quick. If dip is deep...tap tap. The
need to add punchings. I don't sit at eye level to do this even at the
piano.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Also the sharps...always a sticky wicket. Again
insert it under the white keys & see what's happening then correct it. The
width of the gauge allows easy access between the white key pins to access the
key pins to the sharps</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Being a dip priority regulator I've always like to stay
a bout a .390 dip. SO I place gauge under the key &
tap the top of the key with my finger then listen & feel for a slight
.015 gap. Or a single wrap of masking tape around the circumference of the
gauge makes it zzzzactly.390. In that case the gauge should just slide in with
no key rise or no tapping sound.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> For the bench part Eds suggestion of duplicating
the keybed environment is good & possible to get close. My non -rookie shop
helper Keith Roberts came up with a slick way to get very close on the bench.
(been the re to long to be a rookie any more..darn)</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> HE/we uses the gauge to set dip on all the C notes
sitting at the piano. We then place the action on the reg bench &
remove the stack. The keys fall down & rest on the punchings Then we
the use a straight edge set between our test notes. Using our test notes we
remove or add punchings till he/we a fairly straight line between
test notes. It's quick easy & any shop rookie can get very close. Then
reinstall the action stack & keys in the piano & tweak further until
it's dialed. At this point I use the after touch feel I like.
Meaning it's just a tactile sense from years of doing this. Or place a
card of .040 or .050 on top of the front punching & then depress the key. If
the dip/aftertouoch is right the jack should just begin to
escape.</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Make sense?.....yes..no?</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><EM> Dale</EM></STRONG></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>Does
anyone have a reliable method of setting key dip (grand) on the bench<BR>so
that it remains accurate when the action is moved back to the piano?
I'd<BR>sure love to retire from sitting down at eye level to the key
bed. <BR><BR>David Love<BR>davidlovepianos@comcast.net
<BR>www.davidlovepianos.com<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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