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<font size="+1">I rebuilt the action of an 1881 Steinway upright 15+
years ago and noted that the tone in the 5th/6th octaves didn't sound
quite like a piano. It was a spec piano and a prospective buyer decided
not to buy it because of the tone in that area, so I experimented with
the strike line on the advise of a fellow tech. I found that the tone
improved if I moved the first treble hammer up 5/16" from the original
position, tapering off to standard height somewhere in the high treble.
<br>
<br>
Comparing the ratio of strike distance to speaking length with the same
ratio in a Yamaha U3, I discovered that they were the same. The 5/16"
change was a lucky guess; I like the way Dale arrives at it.<br>
<br>
Tom Cole<br>
</font><br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</a> wrote:
<blockquote cite="midc79.18097142.33ce7dd8@aol.com" type="cite">
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<div><strong><em>Hi Phil</em></strong></div>
<div><strong><em> The upright part of this exercise is rather a new
venture & both times on Steinway uprights which received new butts
& shanks. Knowing that the problem children notes are always in
the same area/octave 5 & 6, I just left the shanks a bit long &
starting experimenting. It really helps to have a nice tight dry shank
to hammer fit so positiong for optimal sound can be done without glue.</em></strong></div>
<div><strong><em> Make sense. We are currently rebuilding a
beautiful 1904 Fischer upright & I will pay more attention tonally
to it the killer ocatave than I would have in the past. Since
Steinways are the most common piano we work on It is these I am most
familiar with & am prepared for this up front. </em></strong></div>
<div><strong><em> However we are completing a BB Mason with a mild
but V shaped strike line between the first & second capo are. IE
notes 70 ish are the closest to the player but only by 2 to 3 MM.</em></strong></div>
<div><strong><em> </em></strong></div>
<div><strong><em> Dale Erwin</em></strong></div>
<blockquote> Dale... I read the request for your hammer positioning
method. I understand <br>
how you remove and reglue grand hammers down the shanks for optimal
tone (I <br>
was at your PA PTG class), but what is your method on a vertical where
the <br>
shank holes don't go all the way through the hammer molding? Do you
test <br>
each hammer in the piano, cutting the shanks as you go?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Philip Jamison<br>
West Chester, PA </blockquote>
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