<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <html><head><style type="text/css"></style><title>Wurlitzer seperated pinblock</title></head><body> <blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">If it has separated, it can be repaired, by drilling right through, to the back, after of course clamping the gap closed to stop wood chips slipping into the space. I then just use carriage bolts from behind. I used to use 1/2", but wiser minds than mine on the list, say 3/8" is sufficient.</font></blockquote> <div><br></div> <div>Actually 5/16" is sufficient but carriage bolts have too small of an area under the head</div> <div>and crush into the soft facer board on the back; use a hex head w/ washer.</div> <div><br></div> <div>Clamping together before drilling helps to keep debris from getting into the crevice</div> <div>but primarily it is to drill a straight hole with the two sides drawn together. If drilled</div> <div>before clamping, the bolt will restrict the sides from being drawn up because the holes</div> <div>will no longer be in line but form a 'v' contour.</div> <div><br></div> <div>Chances are that if the top is separated, so's the bottom.  The majority of spinets and consoles coming through the shop receive bolts; separated or not. I've been thinking</div> <div>of cutting rod connectors in half to get more threads on the nut; I've not found these</div> <div>fasteners available in extra thickness.</div> <x-sigsep><pre>-- </pre></x-sigsep> <div><br> Regards,<br> <br> Jon Page</div> </body> </html>