<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=blue> <div class=Section1> I just use hex head bolts and nuts. I like to countersink the back where the hole comes out. If you use a spade bit to drill your hole from the front, just have a spotter warn you when the tip breaks through. Stop drilling, switch to 1.5” spade bit, then drill your countersink using the small hole from the tip of the other bit to center and guide your big bit. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> As a final dress up you can cut the bolt sticking out flush, then glue on (Goop works) 1/2” CPVC water pipe caps over the nuts. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Don’t hesitate to drill an additional hole or two through the plate in front if there are long gaps between the original lag screws. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p> <u1:PersonName u2:st="on">Dean May</u1:PersonName>             cell 812.239.3359 <o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 <o:p></o:p> <u1:place u2:st="on"><u1:City u2:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></u1:City> <u1:State u2:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">IN</u1:State></st1:State>  <u1:PostalCode u2:st="on"><st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</u1:PostalCode></st1:PostalCode></st1:place></u1:place><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of John Ross Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 3:48 PM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: Wurlitzer seperated pinblock<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> I would look under the piece of wood, BEFORE tuning again.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> If the pinblock has separated, you would be taking a chance on breaking the plate, with an additional tuning.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> If it has separated, it can be repaired, by drilling right through, to the back, after of course clamping the gap closed to stop wood chips slipping into the space. I then just use carriage bolts from behind. <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> I used to use 1/2", but wiser minds than mine on the list, say 3/8" is sufficient.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> John M. Ross <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Windsor</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">Nova Scotia</st1:State>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place> <a href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</a><o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-color:black'> From: <a href="mailto:hoppsmusic@hotmail.com" title="hoppsmusic@hotmail.com">Steven Hopp</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title="pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 4:03 PM<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Subject: RE: Wurlitzer seperated pinblock<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> <div> > >Steven Hopp wrote: >> >>. It was a used Wurlitzer console and had not been tuned in a long >>while. >> >Steven, > >A Wurlitzer that continues to go flat after 2 pitch raises is highly >likely to have a separated pinblock.<o:p></o:p>  <o:p></o:p> Mike,<o:p></o:p> Interesting you should say that.  As I was commenting to the client on the fine shape of the action and no particular visual problems I made a mental note that the pinblock was covered with that piece of wood???  I am new to repair and just thought it was a wurlitzer trait??  I am returning in a short while to give it a thrid tuning if it does not hold then I will venture into looking under that piece of wood.  (I'm not that poor a tuner!)  Also regarding the dealer sending out this piano without an in store tuning - in his defense he got the piano in on trade.  He has no storage for these so they go on the floor immediately and get worked on there.  I and the other tech he uses were both not available and someone walked in literally the day he got it and bought it.  He delivered it and figured it would be fine not really knowing it was so flat.  He is usually very good about takiing care of what he sells.  My issue is with not getting paid for some things and repairs that he wants me to do that are substandard.  Listening to the advice I am receiving I think he and I will have to come to a mutual agreement that benefits me financially and doesn't destroy his bottom line while keeping both our names and reputation in tact.  I can not end this relationship.  I am fortunate to have it and am not unhappy just a little frustrated.  Thanks again everyone for your input.  Keep it coming....<o:p></o:p> Steven <o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p></o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2746??PS=47575" target="_top">PC Magazine’s 2007 editors’ choice for best web mail—award-winning Windows Live Hotmail.</a> <o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </div> </body> </html>