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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Even a power disk sander, can ignite
them.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I have used a heat gun, and knife to remove them.
Too much heat from a heat gun will ignite them, as well.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jhjpiano@sbcglobal.net href="mailto:jhjpiano@sbcglobal.net">Jim
Johnson</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 23, 2007 12:07
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Removing key fronts</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A word of caution about using a table saw (or
other power tool) to remove key fronts or keytops. Some of the older
pianos used nitro-cellulous based plastic which is very flammable. It's
the same material they used to use for flash powder or gun cotton. I
just about lost my shop one time when a piece of this material heated up in my
saw and all the material on the floor ignited in a huge fireball.
Luckily I had a fire extinguisher at hand and put it out. I never
removed the burn marks from the base of the saw so that I would always be
reminded of how dangerous this stuff can be.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=deanmay@pianorebuilders.com
href="mailto:deanmay@pianorebuilders.com">Dean May</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">'Pianotech List'</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 22, 2007 6:10
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Removing key fronts</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Ditto, sort of. I
clamp a piece of wood on the fence, lower the blade, then move the fence
over until the left edge of the wood just covers the left edge of the saw
blade. Turn the saw on and slowly raise the blade allowing it to cut a
semi-circle into your new wood fence. After you get the blade a couple
inches higher than your key, lower it slightly and turn off. You now have a
fence that you can set for cutting thinner than the saw kerf. Just move the
fence over to the right to get the thickness you wish to cut off the key.
<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">My Ryobi saw has a
built miter sled that makes the job a snap. I just square the key against
the miter fence, push the front against my wooden fence, increase my grip on
the key against the miter fence and push through the blade. For keys with
the dogleg going the wrong way (ie, bass) I flip the miter fence around and
hold the key against the near side of the miter fence.
<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">To set your cut
depth, use a scrap piece of wood and cut just a small corner. Hold your new
keyfront on that corner to see if the cut is deep enough to make it flush.
Adjust accordingly.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Once you are set up
it goes really fast.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">There is also in
the Journal a series of articles by Bill Spurlock on recovering keys with a
nifty jig to do this job on a router. I think they are from the early
eighties. If you have the Journal on CD (why wouldn’t you?) you can get them
by searching on author. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoAutoSig><B><FONT face="Bradley Hand ITC" color=navy size=6><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 22pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: 'Bradley Hand ITC'">Dean</SPAN></FONT></B><FONT
color=navy><SPAN style="COLOR: navy"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoAutoSig style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><U1:PERSONNAME
u2:st="on"><st1:PersonName w:st="on"><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=navy
size=3><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: navy">Dean
May</SPAN></FONT></st1:PersonName></U1:PERSONNAME><FONT color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy">
cell 812.239.3359 <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoAutoSig style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"
color=navy size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: navy">PianoRebuilders.com
812.235.5272 <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoAutoSig style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><U1:PLACE
u2:st="on"><U1:CITY u2:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City
w:st="on"><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=navy size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: navy">Terre
Haute</SPAN></FONT></st1:City><FONT color=navy><SPAN
style="COLOR: navy"></U1:CITY> <U1:STATE u2:st="on"><st1:State
w:st="on">IN</U1:STATE></st1:State> <U1:POSTALCODE
u2:st="on"><st1:PostalCode
w:st="on">47802</U1:POSTALCODE></st1:PostalCode></SPAN></FONT></st1:place></U1:PLACE><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=MsoNormal style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt">
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<P class=MsoNormal><B><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">From:</SPAN></FONT></B><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of </SPAN></B>Mike Kurta<BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Sunday, July 22, 2007 4:56
PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B>
fretsandkeys@earthlink.net; <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Pianotech
List</st1:PersonName><BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: Removing key
fronts</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"> Hi
Bill:</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"> You will get
lots of answers to your question. My favorite method is using a table
saw. I clamp a stop block ahead of the blade which gives you a
depth adjustment. By carefully setting it up, you can cut just the
front off the end of the key, or if your new material is thicker than the
old, you can cut an additional thin slice of wood off at the same
time. You may have to make up a jig attached to the miter guide
because of the angles on the keys. Then holding the key firmly to the
guide, push the key slowly through the blade. You can do a set in 15
minutes. You can do a similar process using a radial arm saw.
</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"> Mike
Kurta</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>