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<DIV>I found this to be necessary on a Boesendorfer 200 several years ago, along with a bore angle in the bass and tenor that nearly matched the string angle. Also, then a Bechstein C which needed altered bore lengths as well as the rake in the last octave. It's all over the place it you look.</DIV>
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<DIV>Paul</DIV>
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<DIV><STRONG>"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)</STRONG></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 07/26/07 22:20:06 Central Daylight Time, davidlovepianos@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
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Varied hanging distances off the shank center are certainly not a phenomenon <BR>present on only Steinways. The curved line I haven't seen much on other <BR>pianos but I hung a set of hammers on a Boesendorfer recently that required <BR>gradually increasing the distance through the last capo section. Always <BR>good to test the strike point when possible before you remove the old <BR>hammers. You can save a lot of work by making notations from the existing <BR>hammers. <BR><BR>David Love <BR>davidlovepianos@comcast.net <BR>www.davidlovepianos.com <BR><BR>-----Original Message----- <BR>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf <BR>Of Steve Blasyak <BR>Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 10:45 AM <BR>To: Pianotech List <BR>Subject: RE: Finding the strike line another method <BR><BR>Hey Now, <BR><BR>To David, Dale and all the list. <BR><BR>Is this procedure/phenomenom only present on Steinways? <BR><BR>Thanks in advance. <BR><BR>Stuck in Yamaha M500 land...it could be worse I could have wurlitzers with <BR>separated pin blocks :-). <BR><BR>Just kidding I have my fair share of nice Grands, and a few Steinways too. <BR><BR>Steve <BR><BR>OC CA. <BR><BR>Pura Vida <BR><BR><BR>> [Original Message] <BR>> From: David Love <davidlovepianos@comcast.net> <BR>> To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org> <BR>> Date: 7/25/2007 12:00:25 AM <BR>> Subject: Finding the strike line another method <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Another example of modified strike line in a Steinway B c1983. My method <BR>is <BR>> somewhat like Dale's except when I have the entire piano in the shop. <BR>When <BR>> I suspect there is a problem I hang all the hammers in the tenor and the <BR>> upper treble section at 130 mm leaving the lower capo section unhung. <BR>Most <BR>> problems in Steinway's are in that section though they can drift into the <BR>> upper section as well. It's always a good idea to test strike point <BR>> accuracy on the old hammers before you remove them or destring the piano. <BR>> Anyway, after finding the proper strike point for C88 I set the blocks or <BR>> markings on the keybed and test the lowest note in the upper treble to see <BR>> if it is correct. If it is not (in this case it wasn't) I move the action <BR>> in or out (out in this case) until I find how far it needs to move. Then <BR>I <BR>> work my way up the scale until I find the note which doesn't need to be <BR>> moved. In this case C7 was fine but F6 need to come in to 127 mm and the <BR>> notes between C7 and F6 progressed uniformly. I made a mark on the key <BR>> indicating a 3 mm move was necessary on F6 and C7 was ok. Next I hung <BR>> samples at the end of the lower capo section (C5 and E6) and on G5 and C6 <BR>so <BR>> that the samples are fairly evenly spaced through the section. I secure <BR>the <BR>> hammers with only a tiny spot of glue on the top of the shank and don't <BR>spin <BR>> the hammer as I slide it on. That makes it very easy to remove but holds <BR>it <BR>> in place so you can test for tone without the hammer rotating on you. By <BR>> moving the action in and out I found that the 127 mm hanging at F6 needed <BR>to <BR>> be continued at E6 and move in to 126 mm at C6. G5 needed to be moved in <BR>> only to 128 mm. C5 was perfectly happy at 130 mm. I made marks on the <BR>keys <BR>> to indicate the extent of the move for my samples. I then removed the <BR>> action from the piano and rehung my samples at the appropriate distance. <BR>> Then I removed and rehung the hammers in the upper capo that needed to be <BR>> moved to form a straight line between C7 and F6 after which I hung the <BR>rest <BR>> of the hammers in the lower capo section. I prefer this method when you <BR>> have the piano in the shop rather than hang the entire section and then <BR>move <BR>> all the hammers that need moving. By sampling you can get a good <BR>indication <BR>> of the extent of the curve modification without hanging, removing and then <BR>> rehanging the entire section. When you have only the action in the shop, <BR>it <BR>> is probably better to hang the entire section and then figure on moving <BR>once <BR>> you get back to the piano. A simple flat tray, a straight edge, a heat <BR>gun, <BR>> hammer removing pliers and reamer are all you really need to do the job <BR>> quickly on site. Hanging the hammers with Titebond trim glue to begin <BR>with <BR>> will allow you to duplicate the glue collar without resorting to heating <BR>up <BR>> a pot of hide glue (does anyone still use that stuff:-)). It's a hassle, <BR>> but worth the trouble when you hear a smoother tonal transition through <BR>the <BR>> capo section. <BR>> <BR>> David Love <BR>> davidlovepianos@comcast.net <BR>> www.davidlovepianos.com <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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