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<DIV>I realize everyone has their favorite method to "skin a cat".</DIV>
<DIV>Key fronts are really not that difficult to remove but can be stubborn if you do it wrong.</DIV>
<DIV>With the keytops already removed, turn the key face-down and take a sharp chisel and work under one corner and push. Of course, everyone that does keytops has an old iron. If the front doesn't come off easily, hold it against the iron for a second or two and remove with chisel. You'll learn how long to heat. </DIV>
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<DIV>If you can do a good job with a table saw, fine, but there are chances for error.</DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Chuck Beck" <mrchuckbeck@mail.com> <BR>
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<P>I like to use my tablesaw for machining off keytops and keyfronts with one jig. I added pictures if they came through. Before even beginning to remove any key material it is very important to make sure your blade is absolutely perpendicular with your mitre slots. If not you will get key burning on the back side, and uneven machining. As previously stated, heat and flammable dust: BAD! <A href="http://in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html">http://in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html</A></P>
<P>This is a very useful tool for such a duty, and very reasonable for the result. The hold-down clamps I use on my jig for locking the key in, and setting a depth stop I bought from e-bay for maybe $12 for a pack of six. Woodcraft or someone else would have such items as well. They make clamping safe, and repeatability a cinch. Ciao.</P>
<P>chuckbeck<BR></P>
<P><BR></P><PRE>Chuck Beck Piano Services
1605 West Main St., Decatur, Il 62522
(217)620-0842
(309)451-4652
mrchuckbeck@mail.com
www.chuckbeckpianoservices.net
</PRE></DIV></DIV><BR>--
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