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<DIV>I don't think Jim monitors the Pianotech List. I sent this email to him
also. If we are looking for his direct input, I think we need to send our posts
to both the Pianotech List and to Jim Arledge. Jim, if you are comfortable
reponding to the Pianotech List, that would certainly be appreciated - or if
that requires subscribing and you do not wish to, if it is okay with Jim, would
the person that Jim replys to please forward his response to the Pianotech List
group? This seems to be an interesting thread to many.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry Farrell</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=paulrevenkojones@aol.com
href="mailto:paulrevenkojones@aol.com">PAULREVENKOJONES</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August 04, 2007 11:45
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Fw: Twisting New Bass
Strings</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry and James:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks much for the response. I still have some questions.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 08/04/07 09:20:38 Central Daylight Time, <A
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A>
writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV>Dear Terry,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for the e-mail. Let me put in my two cents. </DIV>
<DIV>First , let me say that false beating is our enemy.</DIV>
<DIV>You probably would not put a twist in plain wire.
Right?</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>Probably not, but twisting doesn't cause false beats, it merely shortens
the length of what is being twisted and requires higher tension for any
desired frequency.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV>However there is a reason you should put a twist in most bass strings.
Here is my simple explanation of why.</DIV>
<DIV>The old fashion, tried and true traditional synchronized
lathe winding technique yields one minor anomaly.</DIV>
<DIV>After the string is made it will unwind or backlash a little when
removed from the machine. This is due to the torsional forces imparted
during the winding process.</DIV>
<DIV>The reason string winders have traditionally recommended to put a twist
in the wire on installation is simply to off set this
built-in backlash. It should take less twists (maybe only 1/2) in
the big wires and more twists (maybe 1 1/2) in the small ones. The
exact amount will be known by your string maker.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Well, my approach was to build a new type of string winding machine
that among other things calculate this backlash and turn one side of the
lathe at a slightly different rate as to offset the backlash. The
length and diameters being variables. The proof that the
derived formula works is that when the string comes off my
machine there is no backlash. So why twist?</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>So, if one end is turning slightly slower, there is a built-up twist in
the core when the string is done? And after being released from the lathe,
that twist is now being held by the crimped ends of the winding at the swage?
So the core wire is internally torqued (torsioned) and on installation without
a twist will act like a string that has had a twist put on it when being
strung? So in essence, the swage is being made to act as a torsion clamp for
the twisted core? Is this a fair restatement of what you're describing?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>During stringing, when turning the core wire onto a tuning pin, generally
the core is being twisted in the opposite direction of the winding (check this
out by installing a bass string, then while still slack remove it from the
hitch pin--it will "untwist" slightly, maybe a half-turn, in the direction of
the winding). This would argue for me that under any circumstances a twist in
the direction of the winding at the hitch pin on installation is
advisable to offset the untwist and compensate for lack of internal torsion in
the core to clamp the winding at the swages. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Am I totally off-base here?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Paul </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>