<div>Ron</div> <div> </div> <div>I like this.  This is also easy.  I could also do this.  And I feel better about getting the soundboard back into its proper position: against the rib.</div> <div> </div> <div>Just to understand completely...you drill the hole in the rib to let the glue in to the gap; the screw however, goes through the rib and INTO the soundboard.  Tightening the screw draws the soundboard into the rib; that's why the glue squeezes out.  Yes?  Leave the screw in for a little extra added insurance.  Yes?</div> <div> </div> <div>Perhaps dumb questions, but I do want to make sure I'm getting it right.</div> <div> </div> <div>Thanks,<BR>Tom<BR><BR><B><I>Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net></I></B> wrote:</div> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><BR>> That's easy. I could do that. <BR>> The crack is visible. Thin viscosity CA glue would run right through <BR>> the separation. <BR>> <BR>> Shouldn't I try to move the soundboard back into the rib first? With a <BR>> clamp or something? Then apply the CA? <BR>> <BR>> Tom<BR><BR>One of the admittedly few things I was taught that I would <BR>still do until something better shows up, is this repair. A <BR>soundboard steel slid between the rib and panel acts as a stop <BR>for the drill bit to keep it from going into the panel when <BR>you drill through the rib adjacent to the crack. Squeeze <BR>Titebond into the hole until you see it ooze out between rib <BR>and panel. Insert 1.25 sheetrock screw, and drive it into the <BR>panel, tightening until glue squeezes out around the rib/panel <BR>joint. Mop up squeeze out and walk. I much prefer mechanical <BR>fasteners and reestablishing joint alignment and contact with <BR>a wood glue to hosing down an area with CA and hoping for the <BR>best. Maybe it's just a lingering conviction that it ain't <BR>fixed until you've got some on your finger and clamped it <BR>together, but that's how I see it.<BR>Ron N<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>