<div>First of all my mentor told me the first time I prefaced a question with"This is probably a dumb question". </div>
<div>That there are no dumb questions just dumb answers! I have used a hypodermic syringe and large needle 18 or 19 gauge</div>
<div>to put Titebond yellow glue between the soundboard and rib. I find them at farm supply or veterenary supply stores,</div>
<div>a good brand is Lureloc, the needle threads into the syringe but both are still disposable and not expensive. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>After predrilling a hole for the 1&1/4 " sheetrock screw, make sure you get the finethread, there are coarsethread out there as well. </div>
<div>I also use fender washers under the head of the screw on occasion if the gap doesn't close as I'd </div>
<div>like it to. I also have larger size screws #8 & #10 in that same length in case the #6 sheetrock strips out in the wood. </div>
<div>The washer can be removed at a later visit and re-used on another job. I have washers I've been using for 20 years!</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Another wrinkle, after the glue has set, you can remove the screw, drill the hole slightly larger using a stop</div>
<div>or masking tape for a marker so you don't drill to far. Then insert a dowel and some glue, hammer shanks work</div>
<div>well, I save broken ones for this since you only need a short 1&1/4 piece. I only do this for those pianos where the back will </div>
<div>be exposed, churches, the occasional home.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I am not a fan of CA glue for this type of repair, it's not as reversable nor do you have the working time if all doesn't go as planned.</div>
<div>If your Titebond sets and your gap is still there and rattles you can soften/unstick it with a heat gun. I carry CA for emergencies </div>
<div>when I don't have time for Titebond such as concert situations but for everyday use, I prefer the tried and true. <br><br> </div>
<div><span class="gmail_quote">On 8/4/07, <b class="gmail_sendername">Ron Nossaman</b> <<a href="mailto:rnossaman@cox.net">rnossaman@cox.net</a>> wrote:</span>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid"><br>> Ron<br>><br>> I like this. This is also easy. I could also do this. And I feel<br>> better about getting the soundboard back into its proper position:
<br>> against the rib.<br>><br>> Just to understand completely...you drill the hole in the rib to let the<br>> glue in to the gap; the screw however, goes through the rib and INTO the<br>> soundboard. Tightening the screw draws the soundboard into the rib;
<br>> that's why the glue squeezes out. Yes? Leave the screw in for a little<br>> extra added insurance. Yes?<br><br>Yes, all around.<br><br><br>> Perhaps dumb questions, but I do want to make sure I'm getting it right.
<br>><br>> Thanks,<br>> Tom<br><br>Not dumb questions at all, just clarification. That ought to<br>be allowable. Whether or not it's right is a judgment call<br>that makes my cut. If it makes yours too, it's a viable option.
<br>Ron N<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Michael Magness<br>Magness Piano Service<br>608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.IFixPianos.com">www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">
mike@ifixpianos.com</a>