<div>Paul</div> <div> </div> <div>Yes, thanks. The separation is only about two inches long, so I'm guessing one screw hole would suffice. Being a console against a wall, I don't think I'll need to plug the hole with the dowel. That is primarily for cosmetic effect, right? </div> <div> </div> <div>Thanks to all on helping me form a plan to attack this little problem. Once again, the list proves to be a valuable source of info for the uninformed, such as myself.</div> <div> </div> <div>Tom Sivak</div> <div>Chicago<BR><BR><B><I>PAULREVENKOJONES <paulrevenkojones@aol.com></I></B> wrote:</div> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3132" name=GENERATOR> <DIV>Tom, I sent this about an hour and a half ago. Did you get it?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Tom:</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Drill as many pilot holes with a small bit through the rib and soundboard on both sides of the crack as far as the rib/soundboard separation extends along the rib; the holes can be two, three, or four inches apart. Use a soundboard steel between the rib and soundboard as a stop and drill a 1/4" or 7/32" hole to accommodate a screw which will go through the rib without binding and extend a good quarter inch above the soundboard surface. Clean out rib/soundboard join with a side sharpened putty knife (take a 1" knife and sharpen a side edge on a belt sander). With a good spatula, apply carpenter's glue into the join between the rib and soundboard as far into the separation as you can. Install the screws with a washer to protect the rib surface starting from the farthest located hole in the rib from the crack; this will gradually pull the board and rib together without putting undo strain on the board or rib. Clean up all glue squeeze-out,
please (I've seen so much sloppy repair over the years). Give it overnight to really setup. Remove the screws and with the same small bit you drilled the pilot holes carefully open up a small glue releasing hole in the soundboard. Plug the holes in the rib with either 1/4" dowel or 7/32" hammer shanks lightly tapping the glued plugs flush to the underside of the board. You should see squeeze-out on the soundboard surface. Clean up. Trim plugs flush with a fine Japanese flush-cutting saw, sand the plug end and rib to a smooth surface and zotz with shellac or lacquer; at least get some finish on the bare wood. You're done. The small holes in the soundboard can be cleaned and plugged from the top if you are concerned about appearance there.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Paul Revenko-Jones</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV><STRONG>"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)</STRONG></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV id=aol_mail_signature> <DIV><STRONG>"If you want to know the truth, stop having opinions" (Chinese fortune cookie)</STRONG></DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 08/04/07 23:14:51 Central Daylight Time, tvaktvak@sbcglobal.net writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"> <DIV> <STYLE type=text/css> .aolmailheader {font-size:8pt; color:black; font-family:Arial} a.aolmailheader:link {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:visited {color:magenta; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:active {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} a.aolmailheader:hover {color:blue; text-decoration:underline; font-weight:normal} </STYLE> <DIV>Ron</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I like this. This is also easy. I could also do this.
And I feel better about getting the soundboard back into its proper position: against the rib.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Just to understand completely...you drill the hole in the rib to let the glue in to the gap; the screw however, goes through the rib and INTO the soundboard. Tightening the screw draws the soundboard into the rib; that's why the glue squeezes out. Yes? Leave the screw in for a little extra added insurance. Yes?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Perhaps dumb questions, but I do want to make sure I'm getting it right.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks,<BR>Tom<BR><BR><B><I>Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net></I></B> wrote:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><BR>> That's easy. I could do that. <BR>> The crack is visible. Thin viscosity CA glue would run right through <BR>> the separation. <BR>> <BR>> Shouldn't I try to move the
soundboard back into the rib first? With a <BR>> clamp or something? Then apply the CA? <BR>> <BR>> Tom<BR><BR>One of the admittedly few things I was taught that I would <BR>still do until something better shows up, is this repair. A <BR>soundboard steel slid between the rib and panel acts as a stop <BR>for the drill bit to keep it from going into the panel when <BR>you drill through the rib adjacent to the crack. Squeeze <BR>Titebond into the hole until you see it ooze out between rib <BR>and panel. Insert 1.25 sheetrock screw, and drive it into the <BR>panel, tightening until glue squeezes out around the rib/panel <BR>joint. Mop up squeeze out and walk. I much prefer mechanical <BR>fasteners and reestablishing joint alignment and contact with <BR>a wood glue to hosing down an area with CA and hoping for the <BR>best. Maybe it's just a lingering conviction that it ain't <BR>fixed until you've got some on your finger and clamped it <BR>together, but that's how I
see it.<BR>Ron N<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE> <DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>