<div>NO, the humidstat goes where Dampp-Chaser suggests under the sounding board! I have installed several systems with 3 rods(one 48-50W & one of the shorter 25W) under the sounding board as the diagrams show in their literature. A humidifier and the humidistat. The 3rd bar a 48-50W goes under the keybed, plugged into the humidistat and controlled by the same. An undercover is a great addition to this for a home setting.
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<div>I put a system like this in a 7'2" Boston in a church about a year and a half ago but instead of an undercover I suggested a fulldrop cover for the entire piano. It costs more but does a much better job of retaining the "conditioned" air in and around the piano. In this instance the church is cement floors with cement block and brick clad built into the curve of a bluff overlooking a small river that feeds into the Mississippi about a mile away. It gets no sun on it's roof after 3PM even in summer! With the setup I installed it doesn't vary more than 5 to 7 beats summer to winter(sorry I'm still an aural tuner, can't give it to you in cents). I've done similar setup's in other churchs with similar results.
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<div>Yes Cy, you're right the rod gets hot on the knees but most pianast's aren't as big as you and I and their knees don't brush up under the keybed like ours do. (It's Mike w/the gray ponytail from your old chapter)
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<div>I agree with John that the root cause of sticking action centers is tight centers but in a new piano that's a given. You're choice is to go through the entire action easing each action center for high humidity or install a Dampp-Chaser system as I've described which will, alleviate that problem until they "wear in" and also help assure the owner will not have a cracked soundboard, twisting shanks, loose flanges and the myriad of other problems caused by the rise and fall of humidity and you can make a tidy profit! As I see it, it's a win/win situation.
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<div>By the way one more thing, some will ask why 48-50A's? I live in an area near the Mississippi were the humisity can fluctuate greatly from nightime to noon and I want the strongest protection possible for my customers. The cost difference between the 50W the 25W or 35W is not much and as long as it's controlled by a humidstat why not have the strongest protection possible? For those unaware of it, fulldrop covers are available on request from Paul Jansen & Son Oshkosh, WI web and phone are in the PTG Guide to Resources & member directory under benches among other listings.
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<div><span class="gmail_quote">On 8/11/07, <b class="gmail_sendername">Farrell</b> <<a href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</a>> wrote:</span>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">And put a humidistat inside the action cavity to control the rod under the<br>keybed. Yes?<br><br>Terry Farrell
<br><br>----- Original Message -----<br>> On pianos which had a DC on grand keys, the pin blocks failed due to the<br>> drying.<br>><br>> If the purpose is to keep the action dry in a damp environment then<br>
> install the DC<br>> under the keybed and let the heat rise that way. Directly under the<br>> block...no.<br>> --<br>><br>> Regards,<br>><br>> Jon Page<br>><br><br><br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all">
<br>-- <br>Michael Magness<br>Magness Piano Service<br>608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.IFixPianos.com">www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">mike@ifixpianos.com</a>