<br><br> <div><span class="gmail_quote">On 8/28/07, <b class="gmail_sendername">gordon stelter</b> <<a href="mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com">lclgcnp@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:</span> <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">If any.  I'm trying to decide if the added expense and<br>trouble is justified, for several of the pianos I'm <br>working on.<br>    Peace,<br>    Thump<br><br>If they're old & twisted/bent/weak/ top 15 or 20 made of cedar I would probably replace them. I once worked on an upright a couple brought back from eastern europe that had new shanks. Whoever had done it hadn't bored out the butts deep enough, they were only glued in about 3/8" and when I struck a hard blow to set my tuning, they would break out the top of the butt. I must have re-done 20 or more of those. </blockquote> <div> </div> <div>My point is it's a lot of work for not a lot of return if the shanks are decent, true you have to reduce the hammer shanks a little, if using the originals, to remove all the glue. However you can bore your hammers a little smaller diameter to account for this or use the Titebond Molding and Trim glue to fill the excess, if they're already bored. </div><br> <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">____________________________________________________________________________________<br>Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. <br><a href="http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow">http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow</a><br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Michael Magness<br>Magness Piano Service <br>608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.IFixPianos.com">www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">mike@ifixpianos.com</a>