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<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>I don’t care for that
approach. While it will tone down the attack on a hard hammer, I don’t
think it’s really how those hammer were meant to be treated. The
problem with tensioned hammers is often that the shoulders have no give, not
that the hammers are too hard under the crown. They should be relatively
hard there. First you need to needle the hammer from 10 – 11:30 and
</span></font><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;color:navy'>12:30 – 2:00</span></font><font size=2
color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:navy'> and create a softer area there. That might take several
stitches on each side—maybe more than several depending on the hammer.
After that there should be an inverted triangle that doesn’t get needled
directly except for maybe 2-3 mm at the surface. After you soften the
shoulders, you can insert a needle very close to the strike point and pointed
slightly away from the tip of the molding to release some tension from the
crown but only after you have created a cushion in the shoulders so that the
tension from the crown has somewhere to go. That type of voicing will be
much more stable, will produce a similar tone at all levels of playing and also
will not sound crappy and distorted when you play a forte, which a hard
shoulder softer crown will. Lacquered hammers are a different story and
some hammers just don’t respond to anything. They should be thrown
out. </span></font></p>
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10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'> </span></font></p>
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<p><font size=2 color=navy face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
color:navy'>David Love<br>
davidlovepianos@comcast.net<br>
www.davidlovepianos.com</span></font><font color=navy><span style='color:navy'>
</span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>-----Original Message-----<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <b><span style='font-weight:bold'>On Behalf
Of </span></b>PAULREVENKOJONES<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Friday, August 31, 2007 1:14
PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> </span></font><font size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'>Pianotech List</span></font><font
size=2 face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'><br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: Voicing needles?</span></font></p>
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style='font-size:12.0pt'> </span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 color=black
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Ed:</span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 color=black
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I've
found their greatest utility to be in stitching from the side of the hammer at
or just above the wood molding. A single needle all the way through at various
positions in a straight line up from the tip of the molding can do wonders. But
with care! A stitch at a time. </span></font></p>
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face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 color=black
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Paul</span></font></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><font size=2 color=black
face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
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