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--></style><title>Re: Tuning pin drilling?
followup</title></head><body>
<div>At 18:54 -0400 1/10/07, Erwinspiano@aol.com wrote:</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite> Yeah, it's a synch.
I use brad points that just fits in the holes. I dimple each pin
location & then drill with a brad point on the drill press. Hles
vary & so do the brad point sizes. The brad point just homes in on
that little target & bulls eye.</blockquote>
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<div>At 00:32 -0400 2/10/07, Erwinspiano@aol.com wrote:</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite> The bit I use is cheap
as you can get. It only has to be round and have a pointed
tip so it puts just the slightest dimple in the Block.</blockquote>
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<div>At 22:37 +0100 25/5/07, I wrote:</div>
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<blockquote type="cite" cite>I first make the marks with a sharp
punch, then use a centre drill and finally drill (right through or
not, depending on the piano) with a special (German) wrestplank drill
which has a more acute point than the jobber's drill and a faster
spiral. If drilling a pilot hole right through would make the
result more precise, I'd do it, but I don't see that it would.
However I would never consider using the wrestplank drill without
first using the centre drill.</blockquote>
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<div align="center"><img
src="cid:p0624080ec3279acbba6f@[10.0.0.6].1.0"
> <img
src="cid:p0624080ec3279acbba6f@[10.0.0.6].1.1"></div>
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<div>I would never use a brad-pointed drill and I would never use any
drill, no matter how dear or cheap, that did not have the fast helix
angle.</div>
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<div>JD</div>
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