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<div><span class="gmail_quote">On 10/6/07, <b class="gmail_sendername">gordon stelter</b> <<a href="mailto:lclgcnp@yahoo.com">lclgcnp@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:</span>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">Sorry to ask this again; but my customer, who decided<br>he didn't want it fixed, suddenly changed his mind. (
<br>Sheesh !!! ) I looked in the archives and couldn't<br>find the GREAT answer I got from someone, and couldn't<br>find it in my folders, so here I am, again, humbly<br>begging for advice for lubricating these 5 types of
<br>contact areas.....<br>A) Dowell ends to "shoe leather" on underside of<br>damper tray, and tops of trapwork levers.<br>B) Dowell, where it goes through large bushed hole in<br>keybed.<br>C) Hinge pins, in big bushed holes in trapwork lever
<br>brackets.<br>D) Metal to leather ( where pedal rods meet trapwork<br>lever ends ).<br>E) Metal pins in dowells, that pedals rotate on,<br>inside lyre base.<br><br> The owner of the piano ( Sohmer "Cupid" grand,
<br>1927 ) a very nice<br>"Big Shot" and I'll say all sorts of nice things about<br>you, to him, if you come to our assistance !<br> Thanks!<br> Gordon<br><br><br><br><br><br><br>____________________________________________________________________________________
<br>Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.<br><a href="http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469">http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
</a><br></blockquote></div>
<div><br>Hi Gordon,</div>
<div>I've always been a fan of VJ lube ever since I made my jar of it about 20 years ago. It would do the job for most of what you asked about. However there are other newer more expensive options that I would be remiss if I didn't mention. For the dowel ends to "shoe leather" if you don't have VJ lube the Super Lube grease is an excellent choice, it has Teflon in it just work some into the leather. In addition you could spray the end of the dowel with McLube which has teflon & molybdenum and will adhere to wood or metal and will not rub off. I would also use the McLube for the dowell where it passes through the bushed hole in the keybed, it is a permanent lube like a paint, very similar to the dag on bridges. For your hinge pins in big bushed holes, I would spray the pins with McLube and pack the bushing with Super Lube. For the metal to leather Super Lube and the same for your metal pins inside the lyre base, unless you want to spray them with McLube.
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<div>The one thing you do HAVE to keep in mind is the McLube spray shouldn't be sprayed indoors, you will need to take the trapwork outside spray the necessary parts and give it about 5 minutes for the fumes to evaporate prior to returning it inside and re-installing.
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<div>Plain old teflon spray will do the job as will Protek but only for a while, what I outlined above are more permanent type fixes that should last much longer. They will, of course take a little longer to do but if you can be assured of not being called back in the near future for this same problem, I believe it's worth it.
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<div>I hope this helps,</div>
<div>Mike <br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein<br><br><br><br>Michael Magness<br>Magness Piano Service<br>
608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.IFixPianos.com">www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">mike@ifixpianos.com</a> </div>