<br><br> <div><span class="gmail_quote">On 10/23/07, <b class="gmail_sendername">David Love</b> <<a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a>> wrote:</span></div> <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">Paul's idea is better.  Call Lloyd at Renner and talk to him about the<br>problem.  If it's their mistake I'm sure they will redo it. <br><br>David Love<br><a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a><br><a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com">www.davidlovepianos.com</a><br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: <a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org"> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf<br>Of David Love<br>Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 7:49 PM<br>To: 'Pianotech List'<br>Subject: RE: Hammer bore distance update <br><br>Sometimes when you send samples they add a few mm's to compensate for<br>estimated wear.  Sometimes they get it wrong.  Better to measure and send<br>specific dimensions.<br><br>A little tricky to redrill an entire set when the hammers are tapered and <br>tailed but it can be done.  You will need a boring jig.  Take them off, plug<br>them with dowels and proceed slowly and carefully.<br><br>David Love<br><a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net </a><br><a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com">www.davidlovepianos.com</a><br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: <a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org"> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf<br>Of Cal Munson<br>Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 7:03 PM<br>To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>Subject: Hammer bore distance update<br><br>Thanks List for your responses.  The piano is a Steinway A and the <br>bore distance, I am told should be 46 mm<br>My own 'A' has an ideal bore distance of roughly 44 with some<br>sections at 44.5 and others at 43.5<br><br>The hammers in question, Renner Blues, have been drilled with a bore <br>distance of 49 mm (center of hole to striking surface of hammer) so<br>they are 5 mm off.   The old hammers with shanks were sent as samples<br>so it is a mystery........ However,  I don't see a downside to having <br>the hole filled and then re-drilling.   But I have not done it<br>before... Anyone?<br><br>Cal Munson<br><br><br><br>I agree with Paul B and David Love, it's not as if they bored them at no cost to you! Nor is it cheap for you to plug them and re-bore them yourself, that is time/money out of your pocket. Plus the cost of a boring jig if you don't have one. </blockquote> <div> </div> <div>David Ilvson asks <snip>explain how one get the correct bore distance from samples?   I was under the impression you needed string heights and center pin height?   How does an old hammer give you the correct blow distance? <br> </div> <div>In the Renner catalog it says " If you wish to preserve the original placement of the hammers, we will duplicate your original samples to determine the original strike point.</div> <div> </div> <div>It says nothing about the necessity of string height or center pin height.</div> <div>In this particular case since the hammers being replaced are most likely very similar to the new ones it would be a simple matter to align the hammers at specific points by the swell of the felt and the alignment of the tails to ascertain the proper point for the bore. Yes the strike point will be worn/shaped away on the samples, however by aligning the hammers as closely as possible otherwise it is fairly easy/obvious how much felt is worn/shaped away. Leaving the bore of the sample hammer in line to mark the new hammers. </div> <div> </div> <div>It is precisely this sort of "mistake" on the boring either a few mm one way or the other and angles not quite right that convinced me that I was better off boring my own. If those get screwed up I know who's to blame! </div> <div>I also have the opportunity to bore a few samples and test fit them prior to boring the set, so if I'm wrong I only have a few to fix, assuming I wasn't using "extras" which I customarily do.<br> </div> <div>I purchased the boring jig from Renner about 3 or 4 years ago and use it in a tabletop drillpress from Craftsman. The very same jig they show in the picture in the Renner catalog on the hammer services page. So far so good. </div> <div> </div> <div>Mike<br>-- <br>Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein<br><br><br><br>Michael Magness<br>Magness Piano Service<br>608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.IFixPianos.com"> www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">mike@ifixpianos.com</a> </div>