<html><head><style type="text/css"></style></head><body><div style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"><DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">This one from Jurgen is first class ~~ </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif"> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif"><IMG style="WIDTH: 288px; HEIGHT: 300px" height=552 alt="" src="http://www.pianofortesupply.com/Resources/item7aa.gif" width=567 border=0> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">----- Original Message ---- From: David Ilvedson <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> To: pianotech@ptg.org Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 7:00:57 PM Subject: RE: Hot Hide Glue Problem The preferred hammer popper offer is ?  David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA  94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "David Love" <<A href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net" ymailto="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</A>> To: "Pianotech List" <<A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>> Received: 10/26/2007 4:20:44 PM Subject: RE: Hot Hide Glue Problem >I can assure you that I've been removing them that way for about 30 years >without introducing any moisture.  Ungar Heat Gun or smaller Weller Gun, >heat the joint, pop them off with a pair of removing pliers.  I can usually >heat up an entire section at time and go through and remove them, i.e., it's >not necessary to do them one at a time.  Interestingly, as the joint cools >it becomes more difficult suggesting the glue does indeed respond to heat >alone.  There is humidity in the air, of course.  Whether the hygroscopic >properties of the glue itself cause it to absorb some moisture from the air >which is activated by the heat, I don't know.  Even if that's the case, >rarely do we work in zero humidity situations.  But, to be sure, they can be >removed with the application of dry heat.  No illusion here.  Try it. > >David Love ><A href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net" ymailto="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</A> ><A href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com/" target=_blank>www.davidlovepianos.com</A> >-----Original Message----- >From: <A href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A> [mailto:<A href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org" ymailto="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A>] On Behalf >Of Michael Magness >Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 2:33 PM >To: Pianotech List >Subject: Re: Hot Hide Glue Problem > > >On 10/26/07, Berley Antoine Firmin II <<A href="mailto:firmin1@bellsouth.net" ymailto="mailto:firmin1@bellsouth.net">firmin1@bellsouth.net</A>> wrote: >Now that I have had my coffee, I should have said that Hot Glue forms a >Chemical BOND, not a reaction. If done correctly it will adhere to glass and >break off chunks of glass if removed. Stained glass people do this. Some >great Q & A are found here: > ><A href="http://player-care.com/hide_q-a.html" target=_blank>http://player-care.com/hide_q-a.html</A> > >Berley >David, > >Based on what I know of hide glue, I doubt you remove it with a purely dry >heat some humidity must be introduced somewhere. >Read the attachment and you'll see what I mean. > > <A href="http://frets.com.ht/" target=_blank>FRETS.COM</A>.htm > >Mike >-- >Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing >is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein >Michael Magness >Magness Piano Service >608-786-4404 ><A href="http://www.ifixpianos.com/" target=_blank>www.IFixPianos.com</A> >email <A href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com" ymailto="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com">mike@ifixpianos.com</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif"> </DIV></div></body></html>