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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>I use carriage bolts from behind. Acorn
nuts could be used in front, if you are worried about the
looks.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>I wouldn't be worried about a nut being
visible, as lets face it, you are saving the piano.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=pianolover88@hotmail.com
href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover 88</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:18
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Upright pinblock
question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I found this site for upright pinblock repair. I know my
situation isn't anywhere near this bad, but I fear it could get worse. Does
this seem like a feasible, reasonable approach? I don't much like the idea of
inserting the bolts from the<SPAN style="FONT-STYLE: italic">
back</SPAN> to the front, with big bolts and nuts showing in the tuning
pin area. <BR><BR><A
href="http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/50-pnblk.htm">http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/50-pnblk.htm</A><BR><BR>Terry
Peterson<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<HR>
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:44:28 -0300<BR>From:
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca<BR>Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question<BR>To:
pianotech@ptg.org<BR><BR>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>See if you can close the gap with
clamps.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>If you can, then it needs bolts through
to the back for stability.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>If you can't close the gap, then you
would probably be ok with epoxy.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial"><B>From:</B>
<A title=pianolover88@hotmail.com
href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover 88</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B>
<A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG">PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Saturday, October 27, 2007 11:07 PM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
Upright pinblock question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Recently acquired an amazingly well preserved Kohler &
Campbell art case console made in 1969. To look at it, you would think
that it could have been made yesterday! It has <SPAN
style="TEXT-DECORATION: underline">never</SPAN> been played, thus the
hammers are unmarked after almost 40 years! Even the wooden wedge was
still screwed in securing the big panel (some call it the kick panel?)
above the pedals! <BR><BR>Anyway, the pitch was (not surprisingly) grossly
flat--close to 140 cents at A4! I checked all the plate bolts and they
were 90% snug, needing maybe 1/8 turn to totally snug them back down. The
tuning pins were found to be all uniformly tight, and responded
beautifully to minute, incremental adjustments. The pitch came right up to
A440 after the first pass, and after letting it settle for a while I gave
it its first tuning in nearly <SPAN
style="TEXT-DECORATION: underline">four</SPAN> decades. <BR><BR>I followed
that with two more fine tunings to make it as solid as possible for the
time being. Ok, now to get to the main reason for my post; There is, what
appears to be a separation, not really a crack but a perfectly clean
separation at least 2-3' <SPAN
style="FONT-STYLE: italic">behind</SPAN> the pinblock laminations,
that runs the entire width of the pinblock. <BR><BR>As I stated the pins
are uniformly tight, the laminations sound, and the plate bolts tight.
Also, I wanted to know the depth of the separation, which ranges from
maybe 1/2-1 millimeter wide at the very most, so I used a very thin piece
of steel and found that it was only about 1/4'-1/2' deep. Should this flaw
be cause for concern, or is it likely not going to affect the stability?
The tuning seems to be holding, but then I just finished it maybe an hour
ago so... <BR><BR>Would it maybe help to 'fill' this crevice with thin
west systems epoxy, until it fills the area, then just let it dry and move
on, or would that just be a waste of time and epoxy? Or maybe Gap filling
CA? Of course, it would take quite a of CA to fill a 56' long, 1/2' deep
cevice! Thoughts and advice would be appreciated! <BR><BR>PS: See the
pics.<BR><BR>Terry Peterson<BR>
<HR>
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