<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=blue> <div class=Section1> I use stove bolts, heads in front. On the back side I countersink the hole with a 1.5” spade bit to recess the washer and nut. Then I cut the bolt near the nut and glue a 1/2” cpvc plastic pipe cap over the nut to give a finished look. <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p> <u1:PersonName u2:st="on">Dean May</u1:PersonName>             cell 812.239.3359 <o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 <o:p></o:p> <u1:place u2:st="on"><u1:City u2:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></u1:City> <u1:State u2:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">IN</u1:State></st1:State>  <u1:PostalCode u2:st="on"><st1:PostalCode w:st="on">47802</u1:PostalCode></st1:PostalCode></st1:place></u1:place><o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of John Ross Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:21 AM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> I use carriage bolts from behind. Acorn nuts could be used in front, if you are worried about the looks.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> I wouldn't be worried about a nut being visible, as lets face it, you are saving the piano.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> John M. Ross <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Windsor</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">Nova Scotia</st1:State>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place> <a href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</a><o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-color:black'> From: <a href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com" title="pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover 88</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title="pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:18 AM<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> I found this site for upright pinblock repair. I know my situation isn't anywhere near this bad, but I fear it could get worse. Does this seem like a feasible, reasonable approach? I don't much like the idea of inserting the bolts from the back  to the front, with big bolts and nuts showing in the tuning pin area. <a href="http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/50-pnblk.htm">http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/50-pnblk.htm</a> Terry Peterson<o:p></o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:44:28 -0300 From: jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question To: pianotech@ptg.org<o:p></o:p> <div> See if you can close the gap with clamps.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> If you can, then it needs bolts through to the back for stability.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> If you can't close the gap, then you would probably be ok with epoxy.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> John M. Ross <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Windsor</st1:City>, <st1:State w:st="on">Nova Scotia</st1:State>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place> <a href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</a><o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div style='font-size-adjust: none;font-stretch: normal'> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-size-adjust: none;font-stretch: normal;-moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial;-moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial; background-position-x:0%;background-position-y:50%'> From: <a href="mailto:pianolover88@hotmail.com" title="pianolover88@hotmail.com">pianolover 88</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-size-adjust: none;font-stretch: normal'> To: <a href="mailto:PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG" title="pianotech@ptg.org">PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG</a> <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-size-adjust: none;font-stretch: normal'> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 11:07 PM<o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-size-adjust: none;font-stretch: normal'> Subject: Upright pinblock question<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p> </o:p> </div> Recently acquired an amazingly well preserved Kohler & Campbell art case console made in 1969. To look at it, you would think that it could have been made yesterday!  It has never been played, thus the hammers are unmarked after almost 40 years! Even the wooden wedge was still screwed in securing the big panel (some call it the kick panel?) above the pedals! Anyway, the pitch was (not surprisingly) grossly flat--close to 140 cents at A4! I checked all the plate bolts and they were 90% snug, needing maybe 1/8 turn to totally snug them back down. The tuning pins were found to be all uniformly tight, and responded beautifully to minute, incremental adjustments. The pitch came right up to A440 after the first pass, and after letting it settle for a while I gave it its first tuning in nearly four decades. I followed that with two more fine tunings to make it as solid as possible for the time being. Ok, now to get to the main reason for my post; There is, what appears to be a separation, not really a crack but a perfectly clean separation at least 2-3' behind  the pinblock laminations, that runs the entire width of the pinblock. As I stated the pins are uniformly tight, the laminations sound, and the plate bolts tight. Also, I wanted to know the depth of the separation, which ranges from maybe 1/2-1 millimeter wide at the very most, so I used a very thin piece of steel and found that it was only about 1/4'-1/2' deep. Should this flaw be cause for concern, or is it likely not going to affect the stability? The tuning seems to be holding, but then I just finished it maybe an hour ago so... Would it maybe help to 'fill' this crevice with thin west systems epoxy, until it fills the area, then just let it dry and move on, or would that just be a waste of time and epoxy? Or maybe Gap filling CA? Of course, it would take quite a of CA to fill a 56' long, 1/2' deep cevice! Thoughts and advice would be appreciated! PS: See the pics. Terry Peterson<o:p></o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf�. <a href="http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLtagline" target="_blank">Stop by today!</a> <o:p></o:p> </blockquote> <o:p> </o:p> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center> </div> Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook – together at last. <a href="http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971033" target="_new">Get it now!</a> <o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </div> </body> </html>