<html> <head> <style> .hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } </style> </head> <body class='hmmessage'> Thanks Dean! I was actually thinking of cutting some felt circles to cover each recessed area. Where can I find/buy the cpvc caps? Would H. Depot have them, or is it something I would have to make myself? Thanks! Terry Peterson > From: deanmay@pianorebuilders.com > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:33:20 -0400 > > Looks Great! You should try dressing up those nuts on the backside with 1/2" > cpvc caps. > > Dean > > Dean May cell 812.239.3359 > > PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 > > Terre Haute IN 47802 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf > Of pianolover 88 > Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:42 PM > To: PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG > Subject: FW: Upright pinblock question > > > Just modified the the job. To be on the safe(er) side, I ended up using > super strong GRADE 8 Hex head 5/16" bolts (Same diameter as factory screws) > since flat heads w/cone shape under head were available only in grade 2! I > then used small locking washers, and put the bolts from inside to back, > using extra large 1 1/2' outer diameter 'Fender' washers. I also used a 1.5" > spade bit to counter sink. I think it should hold up pretty well indeed. > Thanks for all the help! > ________________________________ > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:58:28 -0500 > From: IFixPianos@yahoo.com > To: pianotech@ptg.org; pianolover88@hotmail.com > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question > > > > On 10/28/07, John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote: > Why don't you just get a piece of angle iron, then you would also have > rigidity. > The original lag bolts are normally close to the top, so I think angle iron > would work. > You might have to route an indent, so the lid will lie flat. > John M. Ross > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca > ----- Original Message ----- > From: 'gordon stelter' <lclgcnp@yahoo.com> > To: 'Pianotech List' <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:18 PM > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question > > > > I put the bolts in from the front, but with a > > BUNCH of fender washers under the nut on the back: > > lest the nuts/washers get sucked into the wood. > > ( Nobody should put an upright right against the wall, > > anyway. ) > > On a very rare and costly upright I may soon be > > working on, I intend to have a 1/8 inch ( at least ) > > steelplate made to stretch all the way across the > > back, with holes drilled in it, for the bolts to go > > through. Not very pretty, but the most stable, > > long-lasting solution. ( Should help keep the back > > from 'cupping', too! ) > > > > Peace, > > G > > > > > > > > --- Willem Blees <wimblees@aol.com> wrote: > > > >> > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > > Hi Terry, > > I have done the exact repair you are contemplating on the exact piano you > are referring to. First of all, the reason it seperated is because Kohler & > Cambell in their very wise woodworkers way made their back structure from > spruce and glued the pinblock to it. Since spruce expands/contracts at a > differing rate than maple it seperated at the glue joint! Surprise! > Now to the fix, first of all you need PIPE clamps not c-clamps c-clamps will > warp and not give you nearly the holding power that pipe clamps will, I know > I've tried both! You can get Pony brand pipe clamps at any home center, get > the 3/4' , you can also get the threaded pipe you'll need, I'd get 12' > lengths, that's long enough for any old uprights you may want to bolt in the > future. I have about 8 clamps but usually only have space for 6 of them. > Place a clamp near each screw bore the screw hole and pinblock behind it all > the way through, I use 1/2' carriage bolts about 1/2' longer than the > thickness of back and plate, If there isn't room for 1/2' use 7/16' or if > that's still too big then you have to use 3/8' but then go to the grade 5 > hardened bolts, the standard grade 3/8' snap off way too easily. They come > in half sizes to 6'. I use a large flat washer under the head of the bolt, > one large enough for the square heade to fit through it but for the round > lip to catch on it, in back, a small flat washer and a lock washer and nut > in front against the plate. Snug them tight until the bolt tries to turn, If > they turn too soon, put a clamp on them at an angle to hold it while you > tighten. > There is no need to lower tension since your clamps will maintain the hold > that the screws did. You will need a good drill, a cordless won't do the > job, something with at least 4 amps of power. A good metal bit and depending > on how thick the back is, perhaps a longer auger bit to finish out the hole, > lengthwise. > As for glue, I've always just used Titebond since it serves more as a filler > than anything else and mostly squeezes out anyway. > The plus side of investing in the clamps is you can invest in longer lengths > of pipe to use them for case repairs on pianos, bench repairs, wherever you > need a clamp of whatever length you need since you can combine lengths of > pipe w/couplers as well as get longer lengths. > > Mike > -- > Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing > is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein > > > > Michael Magness > Magness Piano Service > 608-786-4404 > www.IFixPianos.com > email mike@ifixpianos.com > > ________________________________ > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! Get 'em! > > _________________________________________________________________ > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! > http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us > <hr />Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook – together at last. <a href='http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971033' target='_new'>Get it now!</a></body> </html>