<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 12 (filtered medium)"> <style>  </style>  </head> <body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> Jon,<o:p></o:p>                 Based on your pics and description I have a NYS&S flange and shank. The centers, however, aren’t a white felt. Or is that a picture of a Teflon setup? We’ve already established that the hammers are S&S. Perhaps they were pre-hung. I wonder then, if the wippens aren’t from the same place. It would make sense since if the previous tech were price shopping he wouldn’t, likely, have ended up with anything from NY. <o:p></o:p>                 Your posts here represent a fair amount of work as has others on this topic. I’d like to express my deep appreciation for all your help! I’ll continue to play with this as the days go by but I’m afraid I’ll not be as timely with much of the investigations that this forum demands. Please excuse my lack of timeliness. There’s just a great deal going on right now. <o:p></o:p>                 It looks as if I’ll be shimming wippen flanges even more than 3 thicknesses of traveling paper to get something that I can regulate. Moving of the rails doesn’t seem too plausible but I’ll give it some thought. I think that John D’s post established that the parts are indeed different from the old ones. And further that there is no new ones made that replicate the old sufficiently. That means I’m stuck with shimming even though I’d rather not. Is there something that I should do to permanently affix the shim? <o:p></o:p>                 Meanwhile back at the ranch I found that the front key pins had been turned and that I need to re-bush. I also found some stripped frame screw holes for the stack and 2 of the glued in rail support blocks are split. More and more to play with every time I look at it. <o:p></o:p>                 Thanks to everyone for their collective help on this animal. I don’t know what I’d do without you!!!<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> All the best,<o:p></o:p> Greg<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 10:48 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Steinway action noise<o:p></o:p> </div> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>And once I ascertain the<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>profile is there somewhere you can point me<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>so I know which is which?<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></pre> Attached is a group of flanges, Left to right: Hamburg S&S, Tokiwa, NY S&S, Abel, Renner Notice the drop screws: HSS & Tokiwa have round heads w/ Tokiwa spade end. NYSS, Abel, Renner have a hex-drive shape. Depth of profile decreases l to r along with slight shape changes. Renner has a flat center.<o:p></o:p> <pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>Even with a few properly regulated keys I still get a<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>little<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>jack slap. I know that I could simply put a thicker felt in the jack<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>window<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>but what I'm really after here is why this is happening. Is there a<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>better<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'>>way to go about this than simply shimming things?<o:p></o:p></pre><pre style='margin-left:.5in'><o:p> </o:p></pre> With the spread being so close, the capstan is lifting too close to the flange center (fulcrum) thereby causing the front of the wippen to travel through too great a distance. Shimming the flange back, maybe even with one below the screw and two above, will decrease this travel and not cause the jack to hit the flange. Thicker stop felt will place more stress on the jack glue joint because it is being bound between the letoff button and stop felt. You need to reduce the jack's travel by shimming the wippen flange and maybe increasing blow distance and maybe even decreasing dip. BTW those backchecks looked to be leaning back at too great of an angle. Regards, Jon Page<o:p></o:p> </div> </body> </html>