<WBR>I have used titebond for years for all my wood gluing needs, including hanging hammers. I don't even own a glue pot. I just could never see the need for all that mess. <br>
<br>
<div style="CLEAR: both">Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT<br>
Piano Tuner/Technician<br>
Honolulu, HI<br>
Author of <br>
The Business of Piano Tuning<br>
available from Potter Press<br>
www.pianotuning.com</div>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Prof. Euphonious Thump <lclgcnp@yahoo.com><br>
To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org><br>
Sent: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 9:41 am<br>
Subject: Titebond Trim and Molding glue for bushings....<br>
<br>
<div id=AOLMsgPart_0_53f1a8fa-4f4f-4eca-855e-1fc01d394a1e style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff"><PRE style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt"><TT>I saw the "sandable" and "fills small gaps"
description on the bottle, tried some on some test
bushings, and truly liked the way it handled !
Held the felt fast, but still softened under water,
dried harder than PVC or regular PVBA ( meaning less
sweling in humidity, I suspect ).
Unless someone gives me a good reason not to, I
intend to use this stuff on keybushungs ( and
soundboard shims ) henceforth.
G
m
--- Jon Page <<A href="mailto:jonpage@comcast.net">jonpage@comcast.net</A>> wrote:
> >What do you use to get such a good, clean cut at
> the
> >top when you're finished? Razor blade or what?
>
> A razor blade cut through the veneer and cloth
> against the brass caul.
>
> For the bushing on the left, that was a Bushmaster
> install. I cut from the
> center out with a razor blade once the cauls are
> removed and then sand
> the buttons with a palm sander and 180 grit paper.
> --
>
> Regards,
>
> Jon Page
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