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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=634495717-13012008><FONT
color=#0000ff>Another point....... The guy who went back to the sledge
hammer from the nailer also said that he experience that kind of movement caused
the wood/glue in the block to sieze the pin, and has had them break off.
Worth, then, turning slowly maybe to prevent heat buildup...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=634495717-13012008><FONT color=#0000ff>les
b</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
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<FONT face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>Byeway222@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, January 13, 2008 7:12
AM<BR><B>To:</B> pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: tight
pins<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000>
<DIV>Hello List,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I recently had real problems with a piano which had recently been re-strung
and the pins were ridiculously tight. It was the type of
rigid tightness which makes tuning stability impossible because of
the amount of twisting in the pin. I initially had RicB's idea of
winding the pins out and in again with the becket out of the hole. </DIV>
<DIV>What I found to be totally effective was winding each pin out ONE full
turn and back again, 5 times. This does not loosen the coils enough to cause the
becket to come out. OK, you have to tidy up the coils and make sure
the beckets are nipped in, but you don't have the fiddle of putting beckets back
in the holes. The heat which builds up in the pin appears to be just
enough to expand the pin in the plank in order to give it slightly looser
fit. The result has been fine, and I can now acheive a totally stable
tuning .</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>ric</DIV></FONT><BR>
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