<div> Terry:<br> <br> I've been using a laminate router with guide for decades. It's mounted on a plate that is canted to reflect the back angle of the belly rail. The router is then slid along the edge of the board at that consistent angle for a really clean cut. The only clean up is at the ends with a chisel.<br> <font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><br> Paul<br> </font></div> <div> <br> </div> <div> <br> </div> -----Original Message-----<br> From: Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com><br> To: Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org><br> Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 6:35 pm<br> Subject: Re: Soundboard installation, next topic : trimming at the belly rail<br> <br> <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_5cbb00ce-f281-477f-88c3-1dd2ad4811a1" style="margin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> Router with guide sounds like a great idea to me - I never thought of that. I usually use a hand plane for the bulk of it and a chisel at the ends. <br>  <br> Terry Farrell <br>  <br> ----- Original Message ----- <br> > I have done the fitting of the board all around the perimeter, using a > very <br> > sharp ciesel. What is left is a few millimeters that protrude at the > belly <br> > rail. <br> > Is there a preferred method for trimming this ? <br> > Chiesel again ? <br> > Belt sander ? <br> > Router with guide ? <br> > Gluing the board first, and then sand flush with sanding block ? <br> > I of course try to be as accurate as possible, while avoiding splits in > the <br> > spruce. <br> > As always, insights and advice greatly appreciated. <br> > <br> > Best regards. <br> > <br> > Stéphane Collin.  <br> </div>  <div class="AOLPromoFooter"> <hr style="margin-top:10px;" /> More new features than ever. Check out the new <a href="http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003" target="_blank">AOL Mail</a>!<br/> </div>