<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16587" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> <DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>   Hi JD & David</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>    All good points of view</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>  While Hide glue is the easiest to remove, I have removed a new board, installed by some other maker that unfortunately & tragically for all concerned....failed.  It was glued in with epoxy. Ughh!.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>    I posted a bout this a year or so ago. After my initial frustration & request here for help I removed most of it on the rim with the Makita 1 1/8 th inch hand held belt sander. An invaluable tool for belly heads. I was able to sand off the majority of the epoxy <FONT size=4><STRONG>Very</STRONG></FONT> carefully primarily with the front round tip of the tool & with out destroying the beautiful machined surface.  Dust mask on!.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>   That surprisingly took about 15 minutes.  For the notches I used an off set laminate trimmer to clean up which took about 30 minutes or so. The residue right next to the rim came off with a chisel.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>    It takes us a couple hours of scraping to get the hide glue off & </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>    I would prefer this to sanding any day. We employ the usual vinegar& hot water solution accompanied by a steam iron & requisite scraping.  The un- sanded  & original beautiful machined joint appears and all is well. </FONT></DIV> <DIV>  All that to say epoxy or whatever can be done fairly painlessly when need be with other methods.</DIV> <DIV>  David. Next time take a sharp low angle Plane to get the polyester off the board.  Goes fairly quickly.  AMHIK.</DIV> <DIV>  Dale</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2> moreI was more using your post for a springboard to address the topic of<BR>soundboard replacement or not.  It may not have been what you were really<BR>addressing.  I agree, that on the glues, I think for the board you need to<BR>use whichever adhesive gives you the best chance of a successful glue joint<BR>and that really trumps all other concerns.  While the techniques for<BR>removing various residual adhesives may vary, nothing is undoable and<BR>hopefully it won't have to be done very often.  <BR><BR>Having recently tried to scrape a polyester finish off a soundboard that I<BR>was hoping to reuse or remove bushings attached with PVC does make one<BR>sympathetic to choices of adhesives and finishes in other situations.  <BR><BR>David Love<BR>davidlovepianos@comcast.net <BR>www.davidlovepianos.com</FONT></DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></FONT><BR><BR><BR><DIV><FONT style="color: black; font: normal 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF;"><HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px">Start the year off right. <A title="http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489" href="http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489" target="_blank">Easy ways to stay in shape</A> in the new year. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>