<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.3268" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>You mean like this? Radio Shack Cooling Fan Catalog Number: 273-242. It's mounted on the ceiling of my hot box. It was the largest diameter 120 volt fan of this type they had. Seems to work great. Been drying panels for a good five years now.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:002b01c876e7$cec99720$0401a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Here's a shot where you can see the fan housing in the upper-left of the hot box. It's mounted on a slight downward angle. When you put your hand up there you can easily tell that it will produce more than adequate air current in the box to keep conditions equalized. On the lower left you can see that I've got felt-covered wood strips across the bottom that the panels rest on. Below that is several DC 50 watt rods. I covered the inside of the box with 3/4" foil-sided foam insulation (real easy and quick to install - put it on the doors also).</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:002c01c876e7$cec99720$0401a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>There's the box with the doors closed. They latch in the middle (top and bottom) and are hinged on the two side edges. I don't use the bottom latch as I've found that I need to leave a small opening so that excess water vapor can escape the box. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><IMG alt="" hspace=0 src="cid:002d01c876e7$cec99720$0401a8c0@DESKTOP" align=baseline border=0></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>I've screwed up more than my share of jig and fixture designing and building projects, but I really have to say that if I were to build myself another hot box for some reason, I'll build it exactly the same way. Maybe the only thing I do different would be to omit the rib rests (I don't dry the ribs - the picture is from one of my first boards) and your humidistat controller sound like a great idea. I'd suggest monitoring it's performance the first few times to see how accurate it really is.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Even if your shop is humid, you shouldn't have any trouble raising temp to where you need to go - I've got six rods laying in the bottom, and I think I've unplugged four of them - just don't need 'em. You need more heat - just add more rods. Just monitor how much of the time your heat source is on - if it's on all the time, add rods - if you find that it only needs to be on for ten minutes per day, you probably have a larger heat source than you need!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hope this helps. I've got more pictures of my box if you want them.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>----- Original Message ----- </FONT><FONT face=Arial> <BR>>> It's a humidistat that has a dial control and the DC rods are plugged into<BR>>> the humidistat.  So when the RH gets to whatever the humidistat is set at,<BR>>> the DC rods are shut off.  <BR>>> <BR>>> David Love<BR>> <BR>> Ah, I see. The limiting factor then will be the temperature <BR>> the DC rods can raise in the box.<BR>> Ron N<BR>></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>