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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080>Wesley,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>As
Dean mentioned, first raise the balance rail supports and make sure they are not
lifting the action too much.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>Then,
hopefully, the front rail will not be so high off the keybed at the
center. You can plane / sand the ends to fit.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>If
there is still too much height in the middle, one good repair is to glue
some veneer to the front edge of the keyframe on the bottom, then sand / plane
everything to fit the keybed properly. Reset the balance rail
supports after the front and back rails are well fitted.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080>Another technique is to cut saw kerfs across the front rail if
there are not any yet. This depends on the rail type and stiffness,
but some front - to - back kerfs on the bottom will make the rail more
flexible, and could help it stay flat. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>There
are more possibilities, but I think these are the most common ways to treat
unusual front rail bedding.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>At the end you will
likely need to reset key height and dip, at least a little.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT color=#000080>Don
Mannino</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=015304303-26022008><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
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<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Wesley
Hardman<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 25, 2008 5:49 PM<BR><B>To:</B>
Pianotech List<BR><B>Subject:</B> Wurlitzer G411<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A customer of mine has a Wurlitzer G411 in which
there is approximately .090 inch of clearance in the middle between the front
rail of the keyframe and the keybed. The space decreases from the middle
to each of the ends of the keyframe.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>What is the best way to solve this problem
without sanding an enormous amount of wood from each end of the
keyframe?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wesley Hardman, RPT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Scottsboro,
Alabama</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>