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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>You've got me thinking on this and something that I
do with let off buttons comes to mind & might work with the capstans. Along
with a counter sink, or maybe instead of, try a counter bore to help the capstan
start tracking straight down the hole. Drill the first 1/4" big enough to start
the capstan by hand, maybe so the threads just barely catch. Surely 5/8 or 3/4
of solid thread contact is plenty, and if the first 1/4" or so is a poplar
insert, man, that sounds like a machine shop job. I never seem to move the
capstan completely into new wood, so this is always a problem. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fenton</FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 25, 2008 7:29
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Wood Specie Insert for
Capstan</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I moved a capstan line on a set of key and had lousy
results. I plugged the original holes with el-cheepo 2x4 spruce from the local
home improvement store. The wood had super-wide grain and the material between
winter wood was like styrofoam. When I pressed the capstans in place, many
wandered because of the harder original wood and the new spruce on some
completely collapsed - really weird - but the end result is a wandering
capstan line - just won't do.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>So, I'm in the process of routing a 3/4" wide section
out of the capstan area (instead of plugging again) from each key to
start fresh. I was thinking of gluing a piece of maple in there, but then I
thought, well, maybe the maple would be too hard for pushing in a capstan and
expecting appropriate capstan-turning torque - maybe just strip the
threads off the darn thing. Maybe I should use something softer - poplar
perhaps? Or maybe I should go with a wood more close in characteristics to the
original wood (think it is sugar pine) - I don't have sugar pine, but I think
I may be able to find a little piece of Sitka Spruce somewhere around the
shop. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Maybe a nice fine grained flat sawn piece of Sitka (I
think that is where I am leaning)? Thoughts?</FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=3></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell<BR>Farrell Piano</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><A
href="http://www.farrellpiano.com">www.farrellpiano.com</A><BR><A
href="mailto:terry@farrellpiano.com">terry@farrellpiano.com</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>