<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=windows-1251"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16608" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY> <P> <DIV>I will try to answer your questions.  I tune vertical pianos with an impact lever.  In the treble on this piano pictured from earlier today, there was no clearance problem.  In tuning the treble, the impact lever and my hand were about two inches from the rod.  The one compromise I make is tuning the lower bass notes with a conventional lever, there isn't quite enough room for the swing of the CyberLever there.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>There are many of these pianos that I have pulled the pins out and replaced with little or no problem.  There are others that made me want to find a different solution.  Using the sectional steel rod prop, I do not need to move the piano.  I won't drop hinge pins behind the piano, so they won't hide in the piano back or disappear into the cold air return.  I won't get a blood blister on my finger when the pliers slip.  I won't make new scratches on the piano when the pliers or hinge pin slip.  Maybe these things only happen to me.  I make a note on my client record so I know to bring the sectional steel rods in.  Today, I did not see that note and did go back out to my car to get it.  I also brought in a Dampp-Chaser brochure after a short discussion with my client.  If they don't get the Dampp-Chaser this year, I bet they will next year.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>The picture I sent does not show clearly how the rod is held in place.  I will send some better ones to Barbara Richmond, so you may see them in the Journal sometime.  The only other pictures I took of it today are too large of files to send to pianotech.  Bear with me and I will try to describe better.  The top has the same hardware as many grand pianos.  It has the short brass prop and the prop cup to hold it when in the raised position.  It also has the pin on the lid which goes into its holder attached to the side of the piano.  These are to keep the lid straight when in the lowered position.  I wish I had better names for these last two parts, but I can't find them in the Schaff catalog or in Merle Mason's Piano Parts and Their Functions.  The bottom of the rod is held firmly by the pin holder that is attached to the piano's side.  Sometimes I use the prop cup for the top end, but on this Wurlitzer, the cornice in the corner of the lid worked real well.  It may be true that if the lid fell down, I would be in a bad way.  The same is true of a grand piano lid falling, and I always tune grands with the lid up.  I have used this method on many different pianos for a number of years now.  None has seemed likely to fall or I wouldn't be doing it.  If you the height scares you, you could try it with only three of the four sectional steel rods, about three feet long.  They can be assembled that way without having a threaded rod at the end.  Of course, like any piano service tip, you can try it or not.  If you keep tuning pianos long enough, I bet you will find one of these side lifters that this will look like a good option for.  Am I the only one working for people who have marble floors or refinished hardwood floors that are worth way more than these pianos?  Is moving the piano really the best option?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bruce Dornfeld, RPT</DIV> <DIV><A href="mailto:bdornfeld@earthlink.net">bdornfeld@earthlink.net</A></DIV> <DIV>847-498-0379</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <P></P></BODY></HTML>