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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Dean,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I had the same problem which I finally solved by heating the
keytops before I notch them. I came to believe that the keytops are too
brittle. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I put the keys under a lamp with my Dampp Chaser digital
temperature and humidity gauge laying on top of them. When they are about
80 degrees I start notching, and I move the key past the router bit VERY
slowly. Using this method I have had absolutely no chipping.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>David Weiss<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I
am using a Spurlock style set up to trim my keytops and am having trouble with the
plastic chipping out on the notch cutting station. I am using a 1/2 inch spiral
carbide up cut bit from McMaster Carr (27395A31). Is there a better router bit
I can be using here? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><b><span
style='font-size:22.0pt;font-family:"Bradley Hand ITC";color:navy'>Dean<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span
style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span
style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I
switched vendors for keytops (with fronts). The ones I buy from Pianotek
do not chip when notching, routing, or filing. The notching is done on
the table saw with the Frued 10” “Rip to Glue Line” blade…I
think its #P410. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span
style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoAutoSig style='margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt'><span
style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Paul
C<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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