<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> <head> <meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="PostalCode"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="State"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"/> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"/>  <style>  </style>  </head> <body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple> <div class=Section1> For those who are curious here are some pictures of my notch cutting set up. The way the jig is set up the router is mounted underneath the table. The key is passed over so that the bottom of the bit trims the long side of the notch and the side of the bit trims the short side of the notch. I used an “upcut” bit because the router is upside down (so it is really “downcut” now) to pull chips away from the work to below the table.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Because of the way the key edge passes longitudinally past the bit it doesn’t seem like upcut or downcut would make any difference. We get breakout no matter which direction we approach the bit.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> I am using about a $200 Bosch router so it should be good, but I’ll check the wobble with a dial indicator.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> Sounds like warming them first is the solution. This list is fantastic. Thank you all for sharing so generously.<o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean<o:p></o:p> <u1:PERSONNAME u2:st="on">Dean May</u1:PERSONNAME>             cell 812.239.3359 <o:p></o:p> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 <o:p></o:p> <u1:PLACE u2:st="on"><u1:CITY u2:st="on"><u3:place u4:st="on"><u3:City u4:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Terre Haute</st1:City></u3:place></st1:place></u1:CITY> <u1:STATE u2:st="on"><st1:State u5_x003a_st="on" w:st="on">IN</u1:STATE></st1:State>  <u1:POSTALCODE u2:st="on"><st1:PostalCode u6_x003a_st="on" w:st="on">47802</u1:POSTALCODE></st1:PostalCode></st1:place></u1:PLACE><o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> <div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'> <hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1> </div> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Farrell Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 11:31 AM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: key trimming bit<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Dean, I don't know a darn thing about trimming keytops, but I have used spiral router bits a fair bit. If the router is above the keytop, shouldn't you be using a down-cutting spiral bit to minimize breakout? A downcutting bit should leave a smooth cut on the top (router side) surface at the potential sacrifice of the lower surface (although if there is wood bonded to the underside of the keytop, I should think that there will be no breakout on the underside of the keytop).<o:p></o:p> </div> <div>  <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Terry Farrell<o:p></o:p> </div> <blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt; margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'> <div> ----- Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p> </div> <div style='font-color:black'> <o:p> </o:p> </div> I am using a Spurlock style set up to trim my keytops and am having trouble with the plastic chipping out on the notch cutting station. I am using a 1/2 inch spiral carbide up cut bit from McMaster Carr (27395A31). Is there a better router bit I can be using here? <o:p></o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <U1:PERSONNAME u2:st="on">Dean May</U1:PERSONNAME> <o:p></o:p> </blockquote> </div> </body> </html>