John, Do you charge a minimum fee for those few pianos that nothing can be done? Especially if far from home....  Does the Maytag man charge you when he/she comes and the dishwasher is shot and you'll have to buy another?  You should by all means charge something for your efforts, otherwise, you're just cheating yourself! Paul <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td width=40%>"John Formsma" <formsma@gmail.com> Sent by: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org 04/18/2008 09:23 AM <table border> <tr valign=top> <td bgcolor=white> <div align=center>Please respond to Pianotech List <pianotech@ptg.org></div></table> <td width=59%> <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>To</div> <td>"Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>cc</div> <td> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>Subject</div> <td>Failed string splicing -- charge for time?</table> <table> <tr valign=top> <td> <td></table> </table> What do you do when you attempt a string splice and it fails upon raising it to pitch? Do you charge for your time generally? And specifically, what would you do in the scenario described below? The piano was a Yamaha P22.  The first wound string in the tenor (D#3) broke during the tuning. Piano will be used in the next few days for a Music Festival of some sort.  As I was weighing string splicing versus string replacement in this circumstance, I considered the following: 1.        The piano is about 55 miles away-- too far to return just to retune the one string, and not in my normal route where I could stop by after a day of work. 2.        I have universals, but didn't want to use one in this (nicer) piano. I was also concerned about string stabilization -- would rather do a splice when possible (particularly in this instance since it will be used in the next few days). 3.        Since the broken string was the first wound string in the tenor, I did not see a safe way to mute that string if it were replaced, since any arrangement of double muting (or whatever) might result in the mute falling into the action. 4.        Therefore, it seemed that the best option (for the customer as well as me) was to splice because it would be the quickest to stabilize. Whatever pitch drop that occurred after all attempts at stabilization would have to be endured, since it was so far away, but at least a splice would drop less than a new string. When I raised the spliced string to pitch, everything was looking great. The splice held, I squeezed the coil (to death) with vice grips, and pounded on the string for about two minutes. trying to stabilize things as much as possible. The core wire was 0.037", and the first splice attempt was using a 0.038" leader.  Finished the tuning, and was doing some last-minute stabilization right before leaving. Bam!  The splice breaks just above the knot on the leader wire -- and I was less than two beats above where the pitch was supposed to be.  Grrrr! Second attempt. I was thinking, Well, maybe the tension was too high at that point for the slightly larger wire. So I tried again with 0.037" core wire. It was looking good at first, got up to pitch initially, then I lowered the pitch to tighten up the coils slightly. Upon raising pitch again, it broke too -- at the same place, right above the knot. The only other option now obviously is to replace the string, which means two trips if the string is to be retuned. In this instance, I felt justified in the string splicing attempts.  Nevertheless, I felt bad about charging the customer for my time when both attempts failed. So I didn't charge for any time. Generally, my splices hold.  So I don't think that technique is the problem.  However, I never rule me out of the equation. <G> What would you have done in this instance? I am looking forward to being further enlightened. :-)   All tricks and tips would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance. -- JF