<STRONG><EM><FONT size=3>Mike <br>
</FONT></EM></STRONG> I'll second that. It's so much easier to do what you've suggested & there is no question about original plate locations. I find uprights quite a bit more difficult in general to rebelly. Certainly no discounts apply.<br>
Dale<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div id=AOLMsgPart_0_5e37ee83-af60-4020-9b17-2c40772643ed style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Al, <br>
Another pinblock option which the others have not mentioned yet: If the original block is still well attached to the back structure, rout out a cavity in the original block for each section of tuning pins, and inset a piece of new pinblock. Epoxy, screws, dowels, whatever makes you feel comfortable. This lets you preserve the plate/pinblock relationship, making soundboard/bridge alignment a lot less complicated, as described by Del. <br>
Mike <br>
<br>
AlliedPianoCraft wrote: <br>
> I just got a call to rebuild a Stieff upright which the customer > believes was made in the 1920"s. He wants a new soundboard, pinblock etc. <br>
> > While I have installed many soundboards (I don't make my own) and > pinblocks in grands, I have never replaced any in uprights. <br>
> > I have two questions: 1, Is it more or less difficult to replace a > soundboard and pinblock on an upright? 2, Comparative price. How > should I estimate the job as compared to a grand. <br>
> > Thanks for any input. <br>
> > Al Guecia <br>
</div>
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