<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16640" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Very Nice Jude,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>An elegant solution to a procedure I've long thought about but never tried. 1/4" Lexan might work well instead of Masonite to easily draw your proposed rout out. Great technique. Do you still need epoxy or any other re-enforcement for the insert?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Fenton</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=juderev@verizon.net href="mailto:juderev@verizon.net">Jude Reveley/Absolute Piano</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Piano Tech List</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, April 21, 2008 6:59 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Rebuilding an upright</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG>Hey Al,</STRONG></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG></STRONG></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG>A few years ago, I used the following technique on a Beckstein L that I didn't want to pull all apart (see pictures below). It would work just as well for uprights if you want a real nice fit with more wood, less epoxy FWIW.</STRONG></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG></STRONG></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG>Make a masonite template of the area you want to rout out. Rout out with pattern bits of varying depths 1/2" to 1-1/2". Fill masonite with epoxy to make a form and then use the form to rout out an exact copy of your cavity. Pretty simple overall; granted, a bit more work than just gap filling with epoxy but it's satisfying and I would especially recommend for open face blocks where you need that visual appeal. Charge the same as a small grand. </STRONG></FONT></DIV> <DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV> <DIV><STRONG>Jude Reveley, RPT<BR>Absolute Piano Restoration, LLC<BR>Lowell, Massachusetts<BR>(978) 323-4545</STRONG><BR></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV id=AOLMsgPart_0_5e37ee83-af60-4020-9b17-2c40772643ed style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Al, <BR>Another pinblock option which the others have not mentioned yet: If the original block is still well attached to the back structure, rout out a cavity in the original block for each section of tuning pins, and inset a piece of new pinblock. Epoxy, screws, dowels, whatever makes you feel comfortable. This lets you preserve the plate/pinblock relationship, making soundboard/bridge alignment a lot less complicated, as described by Del. <BR>Mike <BR> <BR>AlliedPianoCraft wrote: <BR>> I just got a call to rebuild a Stieff upright which the customer > believes was made in the 1920"s. He wants a new soundboard, pinblock etc. <BR>> > While I have installed many soundboards (I don't make my own) and > pinblocks in grands, I have never replaced any in uprights. <BR>> > I have two questions: 1, Is it more or less difficult to replace a > soundboard and pinblock on an upright? 2, Comparative price. How > should I estimate the job as compared to a grand. <BR>> > Thanks for any input. <BR>> > Al Guecia <BR></DIV> <DIV class=aol_ad_footer id=u8CA720FD557D39F-918-2F8D><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>