<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16608" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE>  </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US vLink=blue link=blue> <DIV dir=ltr align=left>My practice is similar. I paint on the epoxy (System Three Coating Epoxy -- it's viscosity is just slightly higher than water) and let it soak in. If it doesn't appear to want to soak (harder maple, or whatever) I help it along with a wadded paper towel. Work it in. Then, just before it cures hard I wipe off the excess. After it's cured -- in another 48 hours or so -- it's time to lightly sand (just to flatten the surface and give it a nice matt finish), mark, punch, drill and notch. I also leave off the DAG -- never have liked the stuff.</DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left>ddf</DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left> </DIV> <DIV dir=ltr align=left> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left> <HR tabIndex=-1> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: April 26, 2008 8:23 AM To: 'Pianotech List' Subject: RE: Hardening Bridge Caps </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV class=Section1> I let it dry first then sand back the coating so it’s just flat again with very fine paper, ready for refinishing—I don’t use DAG but leave the bridge top natural wood.  I try to avoid getting the epoxy in the bridge pin holes and I take a toothpick to kind of ream the holes of any excess epoxy before it cures.  A thin coat of epoxy takes quite awhile to cure so there’s plenty of time.    When doing an older bridge this way (repining and renotching) I allow the epoxy to go into the holes a bit and then redrill before pinning.  The epoxy allows you to redrill the holes without any chipping.    In this case I haven’t found redrilling is necessary if you are careful.  The idea of using the CA, if it works as well, is to avoid this particular problem since the thin CA won’t build up.  Also, it will presumably wick itself deeper into the wood—or, at least, that’s what I’m wondering.   <DIV> David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net www.davidlovepianos.com </DIV> -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of erwinspiano@aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 8:03 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: Hardening Bridge Caps   Dave   Jsut curious.  are you then pinning it before the epoxy dries or while it's wet. If wet isn't that a bit of a sticky wicket to get it done before things begin to set.   If dry then the pin holes require some reaming....Yes? Are you coating the top with dag or leaving it natural   I like this idea .....all but the sticky wicket part..   Dale <DIV id=AOLMsgPart_0_6b25d7f9-d1bb-4e0e-807a-9920a9d8f086><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>When cutting a new bridge cap I typically paint on a low viscosity epoxy to</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>both harden and seal the cap.  I do this after drilling and notching but</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>before pinning, sanding back the bridge top flat again before inserting the</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>bridge pins.  </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>I'm considering doing this same process with a thin CA glue which seems like</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>it will offer some advantages: cures faster, wicks into the wood better,</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>requires less sanding afterward.  </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>Any thoughts on the differences in terms of providing a seal and adding</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>density to the wood between the two substances?</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT>David Love</TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT><A href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</A> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT><A href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com/" target=_blank>www.davidlovepianos.com</A></TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE><PRE style="BACKGROUND: white; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><TT> </TT></PRE></DIV> <DIV id=u8CA75C5B69EFE9C-13EC-C78> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=2> </DIV> Plan your next roadtrip with <A title=http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004 href="http://www.mapquest.com/?ncid=mpqmap00030000000004" target=_blank>MapQuest.com</A>: America's #1 Mapping Site. </DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>