<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta content="text/html;charset=windows-1250" http-equiv="Content-Type"> <title></title> </head> <body bgcolor="#ffffff" text="#000000"> Tom, Thanks for the update on this procedure. Just one comment: Did you mean to say unscrew the hanger from the treble end? The other two bracket points face the same way and slide out very easily. <pre>Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. </pre> Tom Cole tom wrote: <blockquote cite="mid0JZY00DE3PGWYXH4@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net" type="cite"> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; "> <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"> <o:SmartTagType namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"> <style>  </style> </o:SmartTagType></o:SmartTagType> <div class="Section1"> <o:p> </o:p> <o:p> </o:p> <div> Subject: hammer return spring string<o:p></o:p> </div> <o:p> </o:p> <div> I have a customer with a nice Yamaha M2 console. The hammer return spring strings are all rotten.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Do I replace all the strings? My first choice. Or, do I replace the butt flange assy. (flange, spring, string)?<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Doing that I will probably have to travel the flanges. My guess at time would be longer to do the strings alone. All the bushings are moving well. No verdigris.<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Any suggestions? Am I looking at 4 to 6 hours or more? How much does a job like this run?<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Thanks <o:p></o:p> </div> <div> Steve Kessler<o:p></o:p> </div> <div> <o:p></o:p> </div> Steve,<o:p></o:p> This is a copy of my post from several years ago with some additions.<o:p></o:p> If your piano has butt plates this is my suggestion.<o:p></o:p> `<o:p></o:p> <pre>>From the archives with editing:<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Japan</st1:place></st1:country-region>,<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>not<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>and<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria. <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>flange screws. <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre> Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I tighten all<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre>remaining screws, reshape hammers<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> and blow out all debris.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre> Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>was<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the drill!) You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>compressed air or vac.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre> (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone that<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre>migrates to the bushing)<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can get<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre>the <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>to get 88<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø cords cut to exact length.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;">Ø  Addendum here .See Joe Goss post on spider wire. I recently went to a fly fishing shop and bought some braided line of the same diameter as the original cord.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre> <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre> Now glue one side in the slot -I use<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>flange.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and glue<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>in<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> less with practice.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way.<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> soon. <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> almost all have the butt plate style. <o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> ` Tom Driscoll<o:p></o:p></pre> <pre><o:p> </o:p></pre> <pre>> <o:p></o:p></pre> <o:p> </o:p> </div> No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1398 - Release Date: 4/25/2008 2:31 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1398 - Release Date: 4/25/2008 2:31 PM </blockquote> </body> </html>