<html><body> <DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The October 2008 archives had a discussion about height of the string loop on vertical hitchpins under "vertical hitch pin?" when I asked this question back then. The rational is discussed there.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regarding finishing. I did it after finishing...with all the problems you mentioned, including some chipping, and some serious time masking  (I plugged the holes with pine dowel...which kind of worked...easy to remove on the through drilled portions, but a pain on the non-through drilled portions.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I did very lighty countersink the top of the holes before and after spraying. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Having said that, I still like the clean way it all came out... I  think masking installed hitches would be just as much pain and the paint line at the bottom of the hitch would probably be pretty inconsistent...though it may not be something you consider visually important.  Maybe shrink tube might work.</FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>As a side note: I think the answer to the chipping issue is to bag hard nitrocellulose or other solvent mixes on the plate, and try a more plexible water base system....I've been thinking about talking to Arthur Grudko (Pianolac) about this, but its not on top burner right now. I know there is a problem with bronzing powders and water...but I bet the technology is moving on this. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Jim </FONT></DIV></DIV></body></html>