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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG>This is a sound approach. Sometimes a
modification will be required to the dags to prevent rubbing since the rear of
the tray pivots lower when the axis of the tray is shifted in line with the
flange. Kent Webb told me Steinway is going for a 15 degree angle of the
underlever below horizontal at rest. There is a school of thought that there is
another half stroke magic line from the balance rail to the flange through the
keyend to underlever contact point, but I've rarely found this to be possible
without considerable consequences. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG></STRONG></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><STRONG>Jude Reveley, RPT<BR>Absolute Piano
Restoration, LLC<BR>Lowell, Massachusetts<BR>(978)
323-4545</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From: "Jon Page" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:jonpage@comcast.net"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>jonpage@comcast.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To: <</FONT><A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 7:52 AM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Subject: replacing a back action on a 1909 Steinway
B</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR><FONT size=2></FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT face=Arial
size=2>> Dave made a few good points for replacement of the back
action.<BR>> Another is to replace the older version without the brass set
screw<BR>> bushing because the wood is fragile and will not hold the screw
tightly<BR>> or simply cracks. One could install these inserts but another
reason<BR>> is to replace the old stiff sostenuto tabs with the spring-loaded
tab version.<BR>> <BR>> I also take the opportunity to move the tray pivot
to be in line with the<BR>> flange centers. This is accomplished by holding
the end block and a flange<BR>> to the rail and tapping the pin with a hammer
to dimple the block.<BR>> This makes the pedal lift the same motion as the
key lift<BR>> and there is no discrepancy with setting the upstop
rail.<BR>> <BR>> I also set the pivot height such that the key lifts the
underlever to <BR>> a position<BR>> parallel to the key bed. A pivot which
is too high has the underlever at too<BR>> steep of an angle and digs into
the lifter felt causing drag and wearing<BR>> a trench (which Dave
mentioned). Reducing the lifting friction makes the<BR>> action play more
smoothly. Lifting beyond parallel is counter productive too.<BR>> Lifting to
parallel induces the least friction.<BR></FONT></BODY></HTML>