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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Allen,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ever use a bass hammer to remove paint scuffs from
the front of the keybed on an old upright?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Yes felt can, over time, remove metal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>At least thats the way I view it.
<G></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=akwright@btopenworld.com href="mailto:akwright@btopenworld.com">Allen
Wright</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 16, 2008 2:59 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: center pinning question -
answered?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Rafael,
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>I don't think my technique or approach to pinning is the problem. I'm
using the right tools, I've been doing this work for a long time, and am
careful in my approach. I'm well aware of the pitfalls you mention. The
original Hamburg pins, although cut on both ends, were done very neatly, and I
don't think they're tearing the cloth much, if at all, when they're removed -
although I agree that can be a problem if one isn't careful.</DIV>
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>Today I looked very carefully at quite a few of the original pins and
compared them with the new ones. On average the original pins had 12-15
swings, and registered 0 - 1 gram resistance. The new pins (exact same
dimension, or if anything sometimes a hair smaller) create 3-4 grams
resistance and 6-7 swings. (This is after working the flange a bit to compact
them a bit with the new pin).</DIV>
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>I carefully mic'd just the ends of many of the old pins and found them to
be a half-thousandth smaller (50.5 rather than 51). So my operating theory at
this point (until someone convinces me I'm wrong) is that indeed (as my shop
mate - and also Wim Blees in an earlier post - suggested) the pins themselves
have worn slightly. At first this seems unlikely; but then again, after 70+
years of wear, perhaps it's not surprising that some wear would take place due
to the friction from the bushing cloth turning hundreds of thousands of
times? </DIV>
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>I've saved some of the pins, and will try and find a microscope to look
at them with. Perhaps someone else out there has already thought this through.
I'd be interested to hear.</DIV>
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>Sincerely,</DIV>
<DIV><BR class=webkit-block-placeholder></DIV>
<DIV>Allen Wright, RPT</DIV>
<DIV>London, UK</DIV>
<DIV><BR>
<DIV>
<DIV>On May 16, 2008, at 4:47 AM, Rafael M. Huberman Muñiz wrote:</DIV><BR
class=Apple-interchange-newline>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">Allen,
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>I think that the problem is with something in your repinning technique.
Either is your device for pushing the old pin out (punch, pliers, etc.) or
the way you push the new one in, or the things you do in between.</DIV>
<DIV>The first one: you have to be very careful when you push the pin out.
The first thing is to note if the old pin has rough edges (one or both of
them) due to technicians that cut both sides of the pin after inserting it
or, worse than this, technicians who file the end of the pins so you don't
see the rough cut but a smooth surface. If there is only one side cut then
you have to push the pin out by the clean side being careful to put your
tool right in the middle and realy straight so you don't scratch the
bushing. It's very important not to go all the way through with the tool
because you will push the bushing inwards tightening it the same way that
the tool for tightening key bushings works. This depends on the tool you
use… If the pin has cuts on both sides or it has been filed then whatever
you do will damage the bushing… So, pushing the old pin out can make
damage to the bushing that will result in tightening temporarly the bushing.
Notice that I said temporarly. if you put the same size of pin after a few
weeks it will be loose as it was the other one, or even worse if you loosed
the bushing with a reamer or file for fitting the new one… If you are
repinning there is no way you will put same size pins, it have to be at
least one size up.</DIV>
<DIV>I won't talk right now about sizing up the new pin, but once you got it
right then you have to be very careful tu put it straight and push it with a
straight surface so you don't tight it when you press at the end (there are
some tools that have an indentation for the pin and can work as the key
bushing tightener tool).</DIV>
<DIV>So my assessment is that there is no wore in the pins but some kind of
swallow of the bushing while in the process of repinning.</DIV>
<DIV>To test if something like this is happening just take one of your tight
repinned piece and apply one drop on each side pf protek center pin
lubricant and wait a few minutes and balance it a few times and you will
notice that it is loose. If this happens you need to put in a thicker
pin.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Rafael</DIV>
<DIV>
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<DIV>_________________________</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Rafael M. Huberman Muñiz</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>ArtePiano</DIV>
<DIV>Jazmines #309, Col. Reforma</DIV>
<DIV>Oaxaca, Oax. CP 68050</DIV>
<DIV>México</DIV>
<DIV>+52(951)5152629</DIV>
<DIV>044(951)507-0960</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
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