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<body class='hmmessage'>Stéphane,<BR>
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Maybe no one has mentioned this before, but I would try to thin the shanks (trim the sides) th see if you would get what you're looking for.<BR>
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Marcel Carey<BR>
Sherbrooke, QC<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>
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> From: AlliedPianoCraft@hotmail.com<BR>> To: pianotech@ptg.org<BR>> Subject: Re: Getting the high treble right<BR>> Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:28:33 -0400<BR>> <BR>> Stéphane, before you go through the trouble of re-hanging the hammers while <BR>> taking off too much felt off the top, I would try some thin CA right above <BR>> the top of the molding. You will be amazed at what it will do the perk up <BR>> the last 6 notes.<BR>> <BR>> Al Guecia<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> --------------------------------------------------<BR>> From: "Stéphane Collin" <collin.s@skynet.be><BR>> Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 5:41 PM<BR>> To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>> Subject: RE: Getting the high trebble right<BR>> <BR>> > Hi John.<BR>> ><BR>> > At the moment, there is 5 mm felt between the molding and the crown at<BR>> > hammer 88. On the older hammers, though, there was nearly nothing left.<BR>> > Yet they sounded very well, musical and all. That might very well be a<BR>> > start point for experiment. But if I reduce the felt layer by 3 mm , I <BR>> > will<BR>> > have to re hang my hammers, not ? If so, well that is life, as someone<BR>> > recently told me. I spent some time in checking the right angle condition<BR>> > between hammer and strings at contact time, as you convinced me that this<BR>> > condition is absolutely crucial, certainly in the treble. (I'm convinced,<BR>> > certainly).<BR>> > What is your favourite dope ? I indeed am always deceived by the<BR>> > acetone-key top mixture, as it brings some high partials at the cost of<BR>> > colour shades dynamics (who disappear), and no more question of fine <BR>> > voicing<BR>> > after. But I always put the mixture from top. I will certainly try at <BR>> > the<BR>> > moulding next time.<BR>> > I like your idea of letting the different hammers bounce on a hard <BR>> > surface.<BR>> > Makes so much sense, as always.<BR>> ><BR>> > Thanks for your valuable input.<BR>> ><BR>> > Stéphane Collin.<BR>> ><BR>> > -----Original Message-----<BR>> > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On <BR>> > Behalf<BR>> > Of John Delacour<BR>> > Sent: vendredi 13 juin 2008 23:06<BR>> > To: Pianotech List<BR>> > Subject: Re: Getting the high trebble right<BR>> ><BR>> > At 20:58 +0200 13/6/08, Stéphane Collin wrote:<BR>> ><BR>> >>Old hammers were lighter than the new ones, but new ones (Renner Wurzen <BR>> >>AA)<BR>> ><BR>> > What thickness of felt have you between the strike point and the<BR>> > moulding wood? Quite often Abel gives you too much, which means you<BR>> > get far too long a contact with the string. You can either inject a<BR>> > hard-setting dope at the point of the moulding or reshape the top of<BR>> > the hammer. Applying dope from the top downwards will not achieve<BR>> > the effect you want. Let the old hammer and the new bounce on a hard<BR>> > heavy surface and see how differently they behave.<BR>> ><BR>> > JD<BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> ><BR>> > <BR><BR><br /><hr /> <a href='' target='_new'></a></body>
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