<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.6000.16640" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> OK, I finally got a chance to
get back to the piano. I checked all your suggestions and nothing seemed
out of line. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> Except for no hammer rise, the
action hadn't been showing any signs of sluggishness, but I decided to rub
powedered Teflon into the wippen cushions and knuckles anyhow.
Presto! All the sudden I had hammer rise. I fine-regulated the
let-off, drop, and repetition spring strength, and now almost everything is
"normal." </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> However, many hammers want to
bounce out of check. But I'm pretty sure I can adjust the bevel of
the backchecks and correct that. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> The same piano had a u-shaped
bracket for the damper pedal "lever," like some vertical pianos have.
It was fussy to get adjusted properly. One night it broke, leaving the
pianist with no sustain pedal. I looked at the bracket where it broke
-- at the crook of the 'U' and noticed it had broken before and was welded a
half-inch away from where it broke this time. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> So I decided to
install an old-fashioned wood trapwork lever. Just got two blocks of
wood for the holders, drilled a hole for a pivot pin (used a lid hinge pin), cut
the lever to length, drilled another hole for the pin in the bottom of the
Pitman, and a recessed hole for the top of the pedal rod. It just
barely fit between the back of the lyre and where the keybed ended, but
it did fit. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> Thanks for all the suggestions
on no hammer rise</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial Narrow"> --David Nereson,
RPT</FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>