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<title>Re: Machine Threads in Pinblock, was WD-40</title>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Hi Paul:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Thanks for your detailed description of making a tap for these
socket set screws. I’ve got a couple of extras and can use one to make a
tap as you described – it does not sound like it will be too difficult to
make. I’ve been playing with different size drill bits for drilling the
minor diameter in some maple pinblock stock as a test bed so as to get my act
together before I monkey with the rim itself, and will test it out.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I’ve learned two things from your post – how to make
the tap, and that infinity is ˝” long!! (Just kidding, hope you don’t
mind)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Will Truitt <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Paul
Chick<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 18, 2008 8:10 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Pianotech List'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: Machine Threads in Pinblock, was WD-40, now plate screws!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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</div>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Hi Terry:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>This is ever so slightly off topic at hand, but I’ll run
with it anyway. I’m going to be using the 3/8” x 16 thread x
4” long socket set screws for plate screws as you, Ron, Del, and others
are doing. What size drill bit are you using to drill the hole in the
rim? (or drill the plugs glued in the holes, as it were). Are you
tapping afterwards? What size tap if so?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I was able to get these screws, acorn nuts, etc at my local <i>Fastenal.
</i> One inch round brass stock as well for mass loading. I mention
this for others, as there are supposedly 4000 of these stores in the<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'> U. S., so you may just be able to run down the street
instead of mail ordering. Lots of other stuff there that us weird piano
rebuilders might use or adapt, and they have a huge catalog. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Also, these 3/8” screws miked out at .369 instead of the
.375 that 3/8” works out to. Does that differ from your stock?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Thanks for your help!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Will Truitt<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>By the way, I think this set up is absolutely brilliant in its
simplicity and application. Kudos to Del and Ron for coming up with it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Hi Ron!
I also use coarse thread as you do. However, I have tried tapping the maple and
found that it made the hole too big - I used the proper tap for the given
machine screw. I figured that the maple must have enough give in it (compared
to metal), that caused the poor fit. I've gone to simply drilling a hole a
little smaller than the thread and simply running a buttered (wax) machine
screw into the hole (just like one does with a wood screw). I seem to get the
nice tight fit that way. Do you find that you machine screw have a snug fit
after tapping the hole?</span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Terry Farrell</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;
margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>
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<p class=MsoNormal>Fenton,<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>.
. . Would you recommend a fine or coarse thread?</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Always
course threads in wood. We use the regular tapping tools after drilling the
minor diameter.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Ron
O.<span style='color:#1F497D'><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>You can make a “tap” from the threaded rod you
intend to use: drill your minor diameter holes as planned. Put about a 45
degree angle on the end of a piece of the threaded rod just enough to be less
than the minor diameter hole to form a lead on your rod just like the lead on a
machined tap. Looking at the rod from the end: visualize the end to
be divided into quarters with an “X” that gives you a
north-south, east- west configuration. Grind a trough in two opposite
quarters with one edge parallel to the north-south line, and the other edge
parallel to the east-west line. A square edge on a grinding wheel does a
tidy job. The trough must be deeper the minor diameter of the thread and
taper to infinity, about ˝” long. Put a suitable handle on the
other end, and “tap” your holes. This also works great for chasing
damaged threads. Your threaded rod will fit better than using a machined
tap.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Paul C<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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</blockquote>
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