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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If the keyslip has 3 or 4
screws holding, and warped into the center of the whites... Remove the
centermost screws and with two pairs of plyers, bend them about 3/4" from the
tips to about a 5 to 10 dergree. Insert them and watch the keyslip move in and
out as they go in. When it's on the out swing leave it there. Usually just the
center one will do the trick. No binding of the action shift. No screws? Drill
and put one in the center and bend it. I've done it numerous
times.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Carlos Ralon, RPT.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=pianotech@nhpianos.com href="mailto:pianotech@nhpianos.com">Mark
Dierauf</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, June 22, 2008 1:08 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Keyslips making keys
stick</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I've been using one of the stainless, large-head thumbtacks
left over from a Dampp-chaser under cover kit, inserted into the front of the
keyframe wherever tight spots exist. Works great and since they're nice and
slippery they don't interfere with the operation of the shift pedal. Warning:
be careful with inferior thumbtacks! In fact it's probably better to tap them
into place with a small hammer (I use my stringing T-handle for this and other
small hammering jobs). I once had the back of the business end of a cheap
thumbtack push through the back and pretty deep into my thumb when trying this
trick - NEVER AGAIN!<BR><BR>- Mark Dierauf<BR><BR>Matthew Todd wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE cite=mid:%3C493324.29125.qm@web83823.mail.sp1.yahoo.com%3E
type="cite">
<DIV>Can't you just shim with strips of veneer, or your business
cards? Seems a WHOLE lot easier.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Matthew<BR><BR><B><I>A E <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:eve_ane@hotmail.co.uk"><eve_ane@hotmail.co.uk></A></I></B>
wrote:</DIV>
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Well Paul it seems mopst people never use una corda, and what i failed to
mention is i ground the screw down with a file to make the ends sand top
of it smooth (VERY SMOOTH), as well as a thin piece of either leather of
felt on the keyslip where the screw might rub the slip, put plenty of
teflon/dag/ or whatever else you might use to lubricate the parts... ive
done this on numerous pianos if done right (it was trial and error) it
seemed to work fine.... ive done this only on grands but to my imagination
it will work even better on uprights... <BR> <BR>Screws seem like a
good idea too...<BR> <BR> <BR>I hope this
helps<BR> <BR>Alicia<BR><BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<HR>
To: <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR>Subject: RE:
Keyslips making keys stick<BR>From: <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu">pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu</A><BR>Date:
Fri, 20 Jun 2008 15:00:11 -0500<BR><BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2>Alicia,</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Wouldn't this
screw cause a horrible grinding on the back of the keyslip (not to
mention noise) and eventually gouge out the wood when using the
una-corda pedal? If this customer never uses the una-corda, then I
guess it would work. </FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2>Another thought would be to drill extra screws in from the bottom
of the keybed into the bottom of the keyslip like Baldwins and older
M&H's to hold it rigid. I've seen as many as 5 screws going
into the slip from underneath.... {+ +
+ + +}</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Paul</FONT> <BR><BR><BR><BR>
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<TD width="40%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>A E <A
class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:eve_ane@hotmail.co.uk"><eve_ane@hotmail.co.uk></A></B>
</FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Sent by: <A
class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A></FONT>
<FONT face=sans-serif size=1>06/20/2008 10:12 AM</FONT>
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<DIV align=center><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Please
respond to<BR>Pianotech List <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><pianotech@ptg.org></A></FONT></DIV></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR></TD>
<TD width="59%">
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<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>To</FONT></DIV></TD>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Pianotech List <A
class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><pianotech@ptg.org></A></FONT>
</TD></TR>
<TR vAlign=top>
<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>cc</FONT></DIV></TD>
<TD><BR></TD></TR>
<TR vAlign=top>
<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>Subject</FONT></DIV></TD>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>RE: Keyslips making keys
stick</FONT></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR>
<TABLE>
<TBODY>
<TR vAlign=top>
<TD><BR></TD>
<TD><BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>>From my observation this happens in pianos with a
"thin" keyslip, it seems only logic that it will bend or flex... or
whatnot... I crossed a few pianos.. european pianos mainly that have a
heavy solid keyslip (bout an inch thik), its never been a problem on
such pianos... if its wood perhaps its humidity?<BR>About 3 weeks ago i
had a problem (it was 96*F with 85% humidity) i was seriving a
Bechstein, skinny keyslip.. its never been a problem, but the owner
called me because the keyslip crowned inward and was jamming the keys...
ive worked withthat piano for 2 years and its never been a problem...
owner said that piano stood constantly next to an open window... so go
figure.. i put a small screw into the front of the keyframe and adjusted
it to keep a nice space...<BR><BR>hope this helps...<BR><BR>Alicia
Evans<BR><BR></FONT><BR>
<HR>
<FONT face=Tahoma size=2>From: <A class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR>To: <A
class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:pmc033@earthlink.net">pmc033@earthlink.net</A>; <A
class=moz-txt-link-abbreviated
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR>Subject: Re:
Keyslips making keys stick<BR>Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:03:56
-0600<BR></FONT><BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Paul,</FONT> <BR><FONT
face=Arial size=2>A small screw placed at the bottom of the inside
corner of a cheek block, will cant the front and outside of the
block,</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Arial size=2>so that the block will push
the key slip out away from the keys. Advantage is that it also keeps the
block firmly against the outside arm and is fairly quickly
adjustable.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother
Goose Tools</FONT><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U><BR></U></FONT><A href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com"
moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U>imatunr@srvinet.com</U></FONT></A><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U><BR></U></FONT><A href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com/"
target=_blank moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U>www.mothergoosetools.com</U></FONT></A> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2><B>From:</B> </FONT><A href="mailto:pmc033@earthlink.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue size=2><U>Paul
McCloud</U></FONT></A><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> </FONT><BR><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2><B>To:</B> </FONT><A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue size=2><U>Pianotech
List</U></FONT></A><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> </FONT><BR><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 19, 2008 11:16 PM</FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>Subject:</B> RE: Keyslips making keys
stick</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>Hi, Paul:</FONT>
<BR><FONT face="MS Sans Serif" size=2>I've seen a lot of this kind of
binding with the keyslip. Especially in said brand. I used
to move the keyframe backward (yeah, I know. The optimum strike
point is lost). At least the piano would play again. What
really needed to be done was to plug and redrill the dowel pins in the
cheek blocks and move the blocks forward a few mm's. Sometimes I
put felt strips on the front of the cheek blocks to shim out the
keyslip. Usually, on the newer grands, the cheek block has a notch
which engages the keyslip and holds it. I've tried shimming up the
bottom rear edge of the keyslip, but that does nothing. I've
sometimes also added a small screw to the front of the cheek block,
which can be used to adjust the keyslip without shims. I also
sometimes sand the ends of the keyslip so it will fit without binding on
the inside of the arms.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> Not a
huge deal but annoying and time consuming to remedy. Welcome to
the club.</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> Paul
McCloud, RPT</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> San
Diego</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>Paul McCloud</FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>Service Technician for PianoSD.com</FONT> <BR><A
href="http://www.pianoservsd.com/" target=_blank
moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U>www.pianoservsd.com</U></FONT></A><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>
</FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>Created with free BlueVoda
software:</FONT> <BR><A
href="http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9"
target=_blank moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma color=blue
size=2><U>http://www.vodahost.com/partner/idevaffiliate.php?id=9223_1_3_9</U></FONT></A>
<BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2> </FONT> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2> </FONT>
<BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>----- Original Message -----
</FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> </FONT><A
href="mailto:paul@bruesch.net" moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma
color=blue size=2><U>paul bruesch</U></FONT></A><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2> </FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>To: </B></FONT><A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" moz-do-not-send="true"><FONT face=Tahoma
color=blue size=2><U>Pianotech List</U></FONT></A> <BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2><B>Sent:</B> 06/19/2008 10:06:57 PM </FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2><B>Subject:</B> Keyslips making keys stick</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>I've noticed a number of keyslips that bow (crown?)
and/or tilt towards the key fronts, thus causing keys to stick down when
played. <BR><BR>Today I visited a YC TG150 baby with this problem.
I had pulled the action in it just over a month ago and all was
well when I left that day. Today, I could hardly get the keyslip out (or
back in), the ends were binding so tightly against the sides... much,
MUCH harder than last month. <BR><BR>I've shimmed a couple of
these out now with front rail felts which results in a nice even gap,
but I curious why I'm seeing so many of these lately. At least 50% are
on pianos that I either have not seen or at least not removed the
keyslip in the past. The one I did two days ago had a folded up business
card (current owner's mom's tuner's card from 20 years ago) already in
there.<BR><BR>I've only been tuning for about 3-1/2 years, and I see
more pianos these days, but the incidence seems to be picking up not!
iceably. Is this such a common problem in general? I'm thinking that
today's was possibly caused by increased humidity, except I believe
there was a thread recently that mentioned that expansion isn't really
an issue along the grain... and come to think of it, I don't believe
that this keyslip is "wood" anyhow.<BR><BR>Thoughts?<BR>Paul
Bruesch<BR>Stillwater, MN<BR></FONT><BR><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2><BR></FONT>
<HR>
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