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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hi Gregor,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>It takes about two years but Ballistol will gum Hammond
oil longer, but due to evaporation will thicken as well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>. Perhaps I should not have used the discriptive word gum
<g> Ballistol becomes more like jello and you know what old jello is
like.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=karlkaputt@hotmail.com href="mailto:karlkaputt@hotmail.com">Gregor
_</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, July 05, 2008 2:48
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Ballistol and other
lubricants</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I am not shure that any oil will gum. Whatīs about that Hammond
organ oil? People have problems when they use "normal" oil from the household
for a Hammond, but that Hammond oil works. And I think that Ballistol does not
gum, I never had problems and used it for 20 years. Perhaps German Ballistol
is another oil than American? Donīt take Neo-Ballistol, thatīs another thing
with fregances. But I donīt use Ballistol for center pins anymore because I
tried that Protec CLP and I must admit that I am thrilled. It just works much
better and quicker. So, no reason to use Ballistol.<BR><BR>In some postings I
read that Ballistol is good for leather key bushings. I am in doubt that it is
good in the long run because itīs an oil. I argue that it hardens the oil,
even when it works fine in the first time. I have an old Förster upright with
leather key bushings in my shop. These bushings make noise, even when most of
them seem still thick enough. I assume that someone applied oil on the balance
pins. Perhaps it was Ballistol? No idea. Usualy I use talkum powder for
leather bushings.<BR><BR>@ David: <BR><BR>yes, I had a dropper too that leaked
in my toolcase. But that was a cheaper one. That aluminium dropper is very
stable but expensive. On the other hand: with expensive tools you get angy
only in the moment of buying. With cheap tools you get angry every time you
use them. The link I sent (to the dropper) is a very special German webshop.
They sell only things where you can get replacement parts of. They have a
printed catalogue which won many prices. Itīs a nice literatur for long winter
evenings as they provide you with many informations about the materials used
and the proper use of the things they sell. You allways find interesting
things, for example this telescope magnet that could be used to grip fallen
screws between soundboard and plate in
uprights:<BR>http://www.manufactum.de/Produkt/172574/757114/Taschenteleskopmagnet.html<BR>Or
this beer brewing device for your
kitchen:<BR>http://www.manufactum.de/Produkt/172094/1410389/BierbrauanlagemitKuehler20L.html<BR>Come
home from a long tuning day and get a cold selfmade beer. Hmmm,
fine!<BR><BR><BR>Gregor<BR><BR>
<HR>
From: imatunr@srvinet.com<BR>To: ilvey@sbcglobal.net;
pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Subject: Re: Ballistol and other lubricants<BR>Date: Fri,
4 Jul 2008 16:20:32 -0600<BR><BR>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Simply saw green and stopped using any Ballistol on
centerpins.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Use Ballistol on high friction points Trap works, hanger
brackets, anything leather, etc.<BR>When Ballistol dries it becomes more and
more like a gum. Any oil will.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Any thinner oil will cut a thicker oil product.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>When getting ready to wash up for dinner, after working
on an old grimmey combine,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>we would first use motor oil to clean our hands, wiping
off our hands on a gunny sack then </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>head to the wash basin ( outside, as we wrer so dirty )
and wash up for dinner.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>The thing that I try to do is limit the ammount of
residual that will be left. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>This is done by using the thinnest mixture
possible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com"
target=_blank>www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DIV>
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<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228) 0% 50%; FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial"><B>From:</B>
<A title=ilvey@sbcglobal.net href="mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net">David
Ilvedson</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B>
<A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Friday, July 04, 2008 3:45 PM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
RE: Ballistol and other lubricants</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>I didn't like that dropper as it leaked in my
kit. Maybe your's is better made? Looks like German
made...<BR>For generations ballistol was a good choice for
centers. Protek and Goose Juice are better...imho
How is it, that Joe Goss had problems with Goose Juice +? Maybe
Joe can fill us in on it again...at this time, he's not selling Ballistol as
a center lubricant...<BR><BR>David Ilvedson, RPT<BR>Pacifica, CA
94044<BR><BR><BR>
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<HR>
Original message<BR>From: "Gregor _" <BR>To:
pianotech@ptg.org<BR>Received: 7/4/2008 3:39:52 AM<BR>Subject: Ballistol and
other lubricants<BR><BR>
<P align=left>Using Ballistol as lubricant for action center pins is okay. I
have no idea about its ingredients but the reason why nearly all German
piano techs use it since generations is that it does not gum after a while.
Most of my German collegues use a tool like this for applying only one drop
of
it:<BR><BR>http://www.manufactum.de/Produkt/0/753674/TropfenoelerAluminium.html?suchbegriff=%F6ler<BR><BR>One
year ago, me too I used it for center pins, but in the meantime I use only
Protec CLP anymore. I have 2 of these oilers in my toolcase, one with
Protec and one with Ballistol. Ballistol (and now Protec) are the only one
lubricants which are accepted here in Germany for center pins. With one
exception: your own hair grease (not kidding). When replacing a ceter pin, I
pull the new pin through my hair which makes the pin getting "lubricated".
And no, I am not the hippie type with greasy long hair.<BR><BR>Compairing
Ballistol with Protec I must admit that Protec just works much better. But I
never had problems with Ballistol.<BR><BR>Concerning ballance rail and front
rail pins: most German techs use deer tallow /stag fat because itīs supposed
not to gum, too. I rub a very small portion of it between thumb and index
finger and apply only a very very thin layer on the pins. But never do it
when the bushings are made of leather. Never apply any liquid or any grease
on leather. But here too, there is one exception: you may use "nose fat"
(and again: not kidding): sometimes the leather of the hammer butt is too
harsh so that the jack comes not back easy enough. Some grease could help,
but as mentioned: never apply grease on leather in pianos. So here comes the
trick: rub your index finger left or right from your nose. You will feel
that this part of your face is a little greasier than other parts. Then rub
your finger on the hammer butt leather. And no, I am not the teenage type
like these teenagers from Kentucky Fried Movie where teenage faces are used
to get oil from.<BR><BR>Gregor<BR><BR></P>
<HR>
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