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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Kendall & Diane,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>The system I have used and I think someone has mentioned
this on the list, is to turn all the pins out one complete turn. I them use a
screwdriver which ground down a to narrow the tip to remove the becket from
the tuning pin. I then proceed to remove the tuning pins with a drill. Once all
the tuning pins are removed, I cut the coils and remove the
strings.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Just another way to do it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Al Guecia</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Tahoma">
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title="mailto:kenbean@pacbell.net CTRL + Click to follow link"
href="mailto:kenbean@pacbell.net">Kendall Ross Bean</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 07, 2008 3:41 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A
title="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org CTRL + Click to follow link"
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Becket breaker? - Technique</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008>Diane~</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008>Hi~</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I still use a becket
breaker, for the reasons that Allen and the others have
described.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I hope I didn't
misunderstand what you wrote, but bear in mind that even though you may not have
completely severed the becket, you may have nicked it enough so that it broke
easily when you backed out the pin with the drill. I have found that beckets I
have not tried to break with the becket breaker first will often not break with
the drill. (-depends on the wire, and how brittle it is.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>The proper technique
with the becket breaker is something that eluded me for some time, until I
finally realized what the issue was. Until I discovered it, it was
very frustrating trying to use the tool. If you are finding it difficult to
break beckets on some pianos, the following may help you. (I noticed that
in consulting Reblitz's latest book on servicing tuning and rebuilding, he
recommends prying the beckets out after loosening the coils, and doesn't even
mention the becket breaker, perhaps because for many people it
really isn't an easy tool to learn to use.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>Once you get the
technique down, it really only takes 10 to 15 minutes to break all the
beckets, and I think it makes things a lot neater and more efficient.
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>(Plus it's a good
workout!)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I also prefer
leaving coils on string ends where I can, because I feel it makes them
less hazardous in disposal (less apt to poke someone's eye
out.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I was training my
daughter in how to use the becket breaker (she is apprenticing with me)
and even when I taught her what to do, it still took her a little while to
get the technique down and to understand why sometimes it worked for her and
other times it didn't. Now she can do it pretty fast (although like me,
she still fails sometimes to sever an occasional one and has to go back,
reposition the tool, and hit it again. Usually I find that (when I
have been restringing regularly) I can pretty much tell by sound and feel
whether the becket has truly been severed or not.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I have generally had
pretty good success with the becket breaker, (once I learned the
tricks), and it does keep the plates from getting scratched up and
gouged by broken string ends when spinning the pins out. (Even in the agraffe
section of grands, where you have to cut the loops off anyway to get them
through the agraffes, I still break the beckets). </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>Here are some tips
on how I do it, which may (or may not!) help you.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>I don't know what
kind of hammer you use, but I have found it has to have some weight and
momentum, ideally. </SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008>I use the same 2 1/2 or 3 lb sledge I use for
restringing, but you may find a somewhat lighter hammer will work
also. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>Perhaps more
important, I make sure that when I place the becket breaker it's tilted
toward the becket, so that its cutting edge is right on the point where the
becket enters the hole in the pin. (See attached photo.) It's like the two
blades of a pair of scissors. The inside edge of the becket breaker is one
blade, and the side of the hole in the tuning pin is the other. If the edge of
the breaker tool is not right up flush against the tuning pin where the
wire enters the hole, it's like trying to cut something with a bad pair of
scissors. You want to make sure the inside edge of the breaker is right at the
intersection of the wire and the hole. (They don't give you any instructions or
tell you this when you buy the tool. As a matter of fact, someone ought to write
a book on how to use common restringing (and other) tools.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>The becket breaker
you usually get from the piano supply houses was designed "oversize" to
accomodate a number of different size pins. The ideal shearing tool would
fit the pin much more closely but since what we get is a "universal"
tool we have to adapt. So you have to personally make sure it's business edge
contacts the right spot, which means you have to tilt it slightly to make
sure it cuts the becket right at the point where it enters (some people would
say "exits") the hole. What happens when you don't make sure the edge of
the breaker is right at this junction is that horrible thing where it pulls part
of the becket out of the hole and bends it down instead of making a neat cut,
trapping the bent becket between the inside of the tool and the tuning pin. Then
the fun begins: trying to get the stuck tool off the pin. If you're not feeling
strong that day, this can seemingly take forever. This also tends to happen more
often on those pianos where they have put the infamous "coil lock" on the pin,
requiring special diligence.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>Tilting the breaker
toward the becket requires an awareness of where the becket is,
so it's also easier to do if the previous stringer had the beckets all
lined up in the same position, or, if you kept them in alignment/aligned
them when you lowered the tension on the strings before shearing the
beckets. (You do lower the string tension first, don't you?) It sounds to
me like some technicians don't bother to lower the string tension before
either cutting the strings or breaking the beckets. (Personally I don't
think this is a good idea - In my experience the beckets are far
easier to break when the coils aren't tight, and are extremely
difficult or impossible to break if they are. I unwind the
pins a quarter turn each (in the proper sequence) when lowering
the string tension. This loosens the coils enough to make the
beckets easier to break.)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>When using a
heavier hammer it's important to make sure you don't cause the same problem
you're trying to avoid by hitting the tool so hard it drives the coil all the
way down into the plate finish! After I got the rhythm it was fairly easy
to just raise the sledge a few inches above the tool and let it drop. (See
attached photo). Once you get a feel for the exact amount
of effort it takes to break the becket, you will be amazed at how quickly
it goes.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>-and yes, when I
first discovered I could snap the string with the drill I was tempted to
dispense with the becket breaker too, until I discovered I was spending far
longer patching up the dings and gouges that spinning/snapping string
ends left in the plate/soundboard/bridges/me. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>One last thought:
Even though you are not exerting the same pounding force as when driving new
pins, I still think it's a good idea to support the pinblock in a
grand when breaking beckets. I feel it also makes it easier to shear
the beckets when the pinblock isn't flexing.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=531364516-07072008></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=531364516-07072008>Hope this
helps.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=531364516-07072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>~Kendall Ross
Bean</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=531364516-07072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2>PianoFinders</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=531364516-07072008></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=531364516-07072008></SPAN><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=533361603-16112007>e-mail: <A title=mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com
href="mailto:kenbean@pianofinders.com">kenbean@pianofinders.com</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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