Yes, putting a little stress on the keyframe. Actually it would be under a tensioning stress. I heard it first from R.Jolly & David Andersen. Whatever it works.<br>
Dale<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div id=AOLMsgPart_2_4f350bee-d690-42df-bdda-a8879bd80f4b>
<div align=left>Stressing the keyframe? <br>
<br>
David Ilvedson, RPT<br>
Pacifica, CA 94044<br>
<br>
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<div style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px">Jon<br>
Nice idea. Easy visual. My kind of tehnique. Jon You probably of experienced this alreay. Stressing the keyframe a bit more also improves the sound. I've heard it dramtically on many pianos. It has to do with coulping the keyframe more intensely to the bed. <br>
<br>
Dale<br>
<br>
<br>
<div style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Let's try something different, a piano related topic: <br>
<br>
An easy way to set the glide bolts is with a caliper. <br>
<br>
With the glide bolts off the keybed, measure a key <br>
height in front of the bolt. Reset the caliper to .015" <br>
to .020" higher and turn the bolt until the key touches <br>
the caliper. Plus .010" at the ends is sufficient. <br>
<br>
Apply slight upwards lift at the stack to see if the <br>
glide bolt still knocks and tweak as needed. <br>
This is an easy way to apply even pressure across. <br>
<br>
Longer keys would necessitate a wider gap <br>
measured with the caliper. <br>
-- <br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Jon Page <br>
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