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<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2>Al~</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks for the
"tip". A ground down screwdriver seems like a good tool for prying out
beckets.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>Question: When
prying out the beckets, do you take the coil off the tuning pin as well before
backing the pin out? Or do you just leave the coil on the pin? When I
have tried the latter the becket for some reason often gets caught back in
the eye (hole) of the tuning pin as you spin the pin out, or sometimes tangles
up in the coil, and winds the string back up the opposite direction, often
snapping it before you can stop the drill. I guess that's one reason I use
the becket breaker, 'cuz I don't have to pull the coil off the pin, and the
becket is cut, so it can't catch. But maybe you have a way to pry the
becket out and pop the coil off the pin at the same time, with the same flip of
the wrist?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT
face=Arial size=2>There IS an advantage to prying beckets out:
You're not stuck with all those little broken becket ends afterward that go
flying all over the piano that you have to gather up with a magnet and
vacuum/blow out of the pinblock holes.</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT
face=Arial size=2></FONT></SPAN></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT
face=Arial size=2>I'm curious what kind of tool people are using to remove
tuning pins. What do you use? I've tried a bunch of different driver
tools over the years. My favorite today is a Panasonic cordless model I got
about 4 years ago. Diane said she got a new drill. I'm curious what it is. C'mon
Diane, you can tell us!</FONT></SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>I used to use a big
Makita half inch drill to back the pins out. It's a great drill, geared way
down, lots of torque. Lasts forever. The problem with this drill is that even at
low speeds it doesn't stop immediately, it keeps spinning for a long time after
you release the trigger. So if a string catches on a
pin and won't let go for whatever reason, it often winds up the reverse
direction and goes bang! before the drill stops spinning. (See attached
photo 619a). </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>(Notice this is a
"dummy" piano, for display purposes only! I don't usually start removing pins in
the middle of a section, and I protect the case with
padding)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have since
invested in a couple of these Panasonic Cordless 1/2" Drills, with the big
batteries. The nice thing about these is that they have regenerative braking (no
kidding! -just like the new hybrid cars) and will stop almost immediately when
you release the trigger. (See attached photo 620a) So not only does this help
you keep from snapping strings if they wind up the wrong way on the
pin, it also makes it easier to put the extractor tip on the next pin without
chewing it up 'cause the drill hasn't stopped turning and you don't want
wait 10 seconds for it to stop. (-which was the problem with the Makita. -Like I
say, even at slow speeds. -Even with variable speed.) How long does the
battery on the Panasonic last, you ask? Well, on some pianos I've removed all
the pins in a piano on one charge. (But not if they are REAL tight: a
Baldwin, for example, would probably go through an extra battery,
or two.) These cordless drivers are pretty amazing. But SUPER tight
pins, I think maybe I would still use the Makita. It costs less than the
Panasonics to replace, and I don't think it would ever burn out. I try to back
the pins out slowly enough so they don't feel too hot to the touch, so I'm not
burning the pinblock holes.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>Of course for the
most control, and the least expense, you can go with the manual
transmission ;-). (see photo 612a) That is, if you have lots of elbow
grease. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>For the car
mechanics among us, you don't even have to buy a special tool. You probably
already have this one in your car tool kit. Of course, it takes quite
a bit more muscle... (See photo 627a)</FONT> </SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>I even tried a
pneumatic driver for a while in my younger days (see last photo, 629a) but it
was too hard to control. Tended to spin the pins too fast, and often they
wouldn't back out completely as with the slower drills. Some guys just
love them though, and use them all the time.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><SPAN class=486081005-08072008>What's
everyone else using?</SPAN> <SPAN class=486081005-08072008> -Just
curious.</SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=486081005-08072008><FONT face=Arial size=2>~Kendall Ross
Bean</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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